Hinckley Sailing

Passage on Passing Fancy

Sinking Boat, Boston Harbor

While in Boston (to renew my captain's license and apply for TWIC) I enjoyed the harbor walk. On a recent stroll in the Charlestown Navy Yard I came upon this sinking boat that eventually attracted numerous firetrucks, police boats and officials.

Cape Cod Canal

Light winds delayed our arrival to the Cape Cod Canal so we ended up watching the sunset while battling a strong current that doubled our time under motor to transit the canal. Above photo shows the railway bridge at the end of our canal passage, which was lowered for a train minutes after we passed under it.

Departing Boston Harbor

A view of busy beautiful Boston Harbor as we sailed out.

Boston's Constitution Marina

At the last minute we called around and were surprised to find transient space available at several Boston marinas. We opted for Constitution Marina in Charlestown because it was the least expensive marina within walking distance to downtown Boston. Plus it's my old stomping grounds and home to close friends. But at hotel prices - nearly $200 a night for us, we only stayed two short nights before setting sail for Rhode Island.

Above photo shows Eve at the dock with the TD Banknorth Garden and Leonard Zakim Bridge in the background. The image below was our view of downtown Boston.

Gloucester, Massachusetts

We made an early morning departure from Portsmouth, New Hampshire along with this tall ship on its first charter of the day. With less than 5 knots of wind, we were forced to motor the 35nm to Gloucester, Massachusetts where my captain is meeting some old friends. Clear, sunny skies and calm water made for a rare easy day on deck and perfect conditions for reading my book. I’m appropriately reading The Last Fish Tale, “The Fate of the Atlantic and Survival in Gloucester, America’s Oldest Fishing Port and Most Original Town” by Mark Kurlansky. Kurlansky is one of my favorite authors because he artfully weaves history, culture and anecdotes that always result in delightfully interesting non-fiction reads.

Upon arrival to Gloucester we were informed that the inner harbor moorings were taken (we neglected to contact the Gloucester Harbor Master in advance to reserve a mooring, which is recommended) but we were able to get one of several available orange ball visitor moorings off Ten Pound Island in the outer harbor. Rental moorings are $25/night.

Next stop, downtown Boston…

Tall Ships Portsmouth, NH 2008

"Class A" tall ship in the harbor parade kicking off the August 15-17 weekend of tall ships in Portsmouth, NH.

Portsmouth Yacht Club

After 115nm we arrived at the Portsmouth Yacht Club where we picked up a secure mooring for $30/night. Downtown Portsmouth is about a 1-mile dingy ride from the yacht club.

Departing Rockport, Maine

Rockport Lighthouse

With the last of the newly varnished floorboards laid, my captain and I refueled at Rockport Marine and then set sail with a suitable breeze for heading south. It was a rare day of sunshine, no fog and favorable wind so we decided to sail through the night towards our New Hampshire destination.

The Inn at Ocean’s Edge

Whether by boat or car, consider a visit to The Inn at Ocean’s Edge in Lincolnville, Maine, off route 1 about 5 miles north of Camden. This recently revamped inn on the western shores of Penobscot Bay is receiving worthy accolades but was a surprise find for me.
I didn’t have the privilege of staying at the inn or swimming in the infinity pool, but I did enjoy multiple visits to this beautiful property. I discovered their 4-6 daily happy hour and although often restricted to seltzer water (designated driver), I was smitten with the lounge.

Rain or shine I enjoyed taking the scenic footpath through the woods to the restaurant and lounge building where Adirondack chairs and patio dining await at the water’s edge or a wood burning fireplace beckons you inside. The happy hour specials alone are worth going out of your way and the view is mesmerizing. This is a place where special memories are made!

Inside scoop: The Inn at Ocean’s Edge recently received approval to build a 200ft dock for transient yachts.

Maine Boats, Homes & Harbors Show

Newly refinished Buzzard Bay 30s. A sampling of the interesting exhibits at this pure Maine event in Rockland, August 8-10.

Maine Office

For nearly two weeks the Budget mini moving truck has served as storage and my office. I’ve spent many hours in the cab with my laptop working on a web site project or reading while forced to vacate my floating home during the day. The unseasonably cool weather and frequent rain showers have made hanging out on deck nearly impossible so the truck has been handy. Plus my office on wheels has allowed us to travel to restaurants while the galley is off limits.

Tip: Moving vans and trucks are typically more expensive to rent at the end or the beginning of a month because this is when most people move. Supply and demand.

The interior varnishing project continues…

Eggemoggin Reach Regatta 2008

August 2nd was the annual Eggemoggin Reach Regatta, a wooden boat race held off Brooklin, Maine. My captain and I had the thrill of watching these beautiful wooden boats and classic yachts while serving as race crew aboard Schooner Heron. The race was delayed twice due to fog and the course shortened three times due to light winds. Check out more of my regatta photos at Flickr.com.

Away From It All

Did I mention I finally got the new iPhone? I ended up making the purchase at an Apple store. Within minutes of walking into the store, I walked out with a new working cell phone already downloading my email and capable of surfing the internet. It was an amazing customer service experience. Now that I finally have this trick new gadget, I’m living afloat in a harbor without AT&T cell coverage or internet access…If you ever feel the need to get away from “it all”, then Rockport, ME is your place.

Sanding & Varnishing

Our escape to Maine was partly motivated by a recommendation of having Northeast Boat work on Eve’s teak wood interior. Our timing was good because we caught this crew of professionals between projects and willing to give Eve some attention.

But first my captain and I had to empty Eve. We rented a Budget mini moving truck and spent a day carrying most of her contents and our belongings off the boat and into the back of the truck. We left only enough bedding in a locker to pullout each night. Otherwise we’re living on deck or out of “the truck”, which also serves as our land transport.

Once the boat was empty, including mattresses and many of her fixtures, we taped up all the cabinet holes and vents from the inside to minimize dust collecting.

For four days now an experienced team has been sanding and varnishing Eve's teak interior, gradually transforming her sun-bleached and saltwater abused hatches back to their natural beauty and preserving other areas down below. You wouldn’t believe the dust! Thankfully, the guys use a high-powered vacuum that does a great job. The varnishing work will continue into next week.

Maine Morning

Another foggy morning in mid coast Maine.

Passage to Maine

My, doesn’t the summertime flyby?

With the precious days of summer escaping and the ocean calling, my captain and I decided to set sail for Maine, a favorite summer cruising area. Our 220nm passage was foggy and rainy therefore I was usually at the chart table worshiping the radar. At least we were able to sail most of the trip, minimizing the concern of running over lobster buoys that are everywhere.

First stop, Rockport Harbor. Situated along Maine’s mid-coast region, Rockport is a calendar-worthy harbor filled with classic wooden sailboats and working lobster boats. It’s deliberately a quiet town compared to its bustling neighbors; Rockland to the south and Camden to the north. Also, as many of you know, home to Schooner Heron (shown in photo).

Narragansett Bay, July 13th

Good wind for a perfect sailing day in Narragansett Bay!

I'll have to call you later...

I’ve lost count of the number of times I walked into a mobile service provider in June to sign-up for a US plan only to walk away empty handed for one reason or another. In the end, I opted to wait until today, July 11th, for the release of the new Apple iPhone. In the meantime I have visited AT&T stores and read everything online I could about the iPhone so I already have my questions answered and am prepared to make the expensive commitment.

Given the congested shopper traffic at an Apple store on a normal day, I decided to try my luck at AT&T today, especially since I was opening a new mobile account. I did my homework too – I visited my AT&T store of choice (Middletown / Newport, Rhode Island) and confirmed my options, prices and backup plan should they sell out right away. Against my better judgment, I got up early and stood in line (with a good book in hand) before the store opened to ensure I would be able to get the iPhone I want – a 16gig model in white.

I found it odd that the store didn’t open as early as advertised, but was relieved when they finally let a few people through their doors around 9am. About 45-minutes later a store rep came outside to inform us that (despite the one phone per person rule) they were already sold out of the 8gig models and only had ten 16gig remaining. No wonder they didn’t open early – they didn’t have enough phones to sell! They couldn’t have had more than a total of two dozen iPhones because the line had barely budged. Very disappointing. And I really didn’t need another reason to be hesitant about giving AT&T my business.

Disappointing for sure, but what was extremely aggravating was that they waited so long to tell us there were so few phones and then said we could continue standing in line to place an order which would take at least five days. Upon an earlier visit to this store they informed me that should they sell out, I could place an order and receive it the next day. This was why I went to do the queuing up thing…Arrrgh.

I hurried back to my floating home with a new backup plan. I'll order my iPhone online direct from Apple, where I have purchased numerous products without disappointment. Wrong. The iPhone is only available at Apple and AT&T stores. Bummer! Now I’m not sure what I'll do…

Exhaust Exhaustion

Just before the long (and hot) July 4th holiday weekend an abundance of seaweed clogged the raw water intake of our generator, which caused the generator to overheat and shutdown. After replacing the shredded impeller, my captain discovered that the water-lift (muffler) had developed a small hole – this was why the carbon monoxide alarm was going on and off over the past week! – filling the engine compartment with water. With businesses closing early for the holiday weekend, it was Monday before we could question anyone about the availability of a replacement exhaust system. It took most of a day to remove the muffler from the engine room because so many things around it had to be dismantled first.
Our exhaust (Volvo Penta) was old and made of stainless steel. These day’s marine exhaust systems are made from plastic or fiberglass, so replacing what we had is not an option. Four days later we’re still trying to locate an exhaust system that will fit and meet our generators requirements. With fingers crossed, we’ve another option on order. In the meantime we’ve had guests who were unfortunately forced to camp afloat without the basic amenities we’ve become accustomed to on the Event Horizon – no running water (try brushing your teeth and rinsing with bottled water) or cold beverages.

Gas Theft

Last night there were thieves lurking in the Rockwell-like village of Wickford. Boats at the dinghy dock with external fuel tanks not locked down were stolen for their contents. This is the first such occurrence at our marina but apparently reports of gas theft are becoming increasingly common at marinas and on shore. Whether you’re a boater or a land lubber, the Miami Herald recently offered tips for safe guarding your gas.

Nantucket

As I've mentioned a time or two before, I'd rather be out sailing and one of my favorite summer destinations is Nantucket... By sail from Rhode Island it's wise to make this a two-day passage otherwise you need to carefully plan departures according to the tides, especially in Vineyard Sound. My captain and I usually opt to spend a night off one of the Elizabeth Islands or Martha's Vineyard before completing our journey.

Upon arrival to Nantucket Harbor we contact Nantucket Moorings on VHF channel 68 to rent one of their secure moorings. (During high summer season make reservations before you set sail.)

On this visit my friends and I explored Nantucket by peddling down her many bike paths and picturesque dirt roads. (There are numerous excellent bicycle rentals on the island, many of them near Steamship Wharf where the ferries arrive.)

The highlight of our cycling day was a long rest stop at Cisco Brewery were we taste tested their tasty micro brews...

and then we went into their Nantucket Vineyard tasting room...and finally we entered their spirits distillery where we tasted surprisingly delicious infused vodkas made with their popular Triple Eight Vodka. Each tasting costs a fee but each is worth it. Next time I'll pack a picnic to enjoy at one of Cisco's outside tables while sipping their many fine libations.

Stormy Sky, Wickford RI

A stormy view from the decks of Event Horizon moored in Wickford, Rhode Island.

Speedboat

A glimpse of Speedboat as she flew past while practicing for the Newport to Bermuda Race.

Contemplating in Wickford

I've been running around like a mad woman since making landfall in the US. It was a wet trip so there was lots of cleaning up to do once we reached our "home" port of Wickford, Rhode Island, mostly removing salt residue from down below and laundry. Lots of laundry.

Two weeks have already passed and I remain in a state of uncertainty while already feeling the stress and financial demands of being back in the “normal world” – it’s more the fact that you need so much more “stuff”. Apparently I really had simplified my life!

My uncertainty stems from far too many co-dependent decisions yet to be made. Which cell phone carrier (I have a fear of long term commitments such as 1 or 2-year contracts!), what area code, where do I want to call home, or wiser still, where should I live based on income opportunities... believe me the list is long. On the bright side, the world is my oyster so despite my whinging, I’m trying to embrace this period of my life as an exciting time.

But the truth is I’d rather be sailing!

Bermuda to Newport - Day 4

The day began with over 30kts behind us and we kept busy decreasing sail as the wind kept increasing until we had furled the jib and had three reefs in the main. We experienced over twelve hours of high winds well above what was forecasted, including hours with sustained 35-40kts. In truth it didn't seem too bad but that may be because the boat was handling the seas well, which were larger but further apart, and we were making great speed - sometimes surfing over 10kts. Plus we were expecting stormy weather in the evening so we figured things would get worse. I'll share an excerpt from our weather router's email "A pretty significant severe weather outbreak is likely...the potential for large hail, strong damaging winds and tornadoes! As this activity moves off the coast this evening some weakening is likely heading into the night, but some squalls/thunderstorms could still bring you strong wind gusts up to 50+ knots, so you'll want to be prepared for this possibility with the time frame appearing to be 7pm this evening through 3am Sunday. A significant amount of lightening is also likely along with very heavy downpours." So you can see why we were expecting things to get worse. Thankfully we encountered only one squall with moderate wind, no hail and only saw lightening in the distance. Another yacht, with whom we have been keeping in contact and at this point was 50nm behind us, saw plenty of action.

New England welcomed us with dense fog so I worshiped the radar while my captain sailed us clear of any hazards. Not only was the weather exciting - throughout the day we saw several ships, dolphins and a large group of whales just off our port-side.

The day's run was 182nm and another 20 miles this afternoon has put us safely in Newport Harbor. The trip total was 730nm taking 4-days and 3-hours, our fastest Bermuda/Newport passage to date.

We tied up along side Goat Island Marina to clear Customs & Border Protection and then refueled. We've just finished picking up a Old Port mooring for the night so we can enjoy ourselves in Newport. But first, a much needed shower!

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see:

http://www.sailmail.com

Bermuda to Newport - Day 3

Day three was spent in the Gulf Stream fighting the current and due to very light winds we continued to be under engine most of the day. In fact, we've already used more fuel on this short passage than we did on our combined Atlantic crossings. We saw a few ships on the radar but only one was close enough to sight. Sadly, what we have seen lots of throughout the trip is trash, mostly assorted plastic containers. As the sun rose, so did the wind and sea state. By noon, the close of our sailing day, we had a reef in the 100% jib and were preparing to put a second reef in the main as the wind was over 30kts and climbing. It never ceases to amaze me how quickly things change out here! The day's run was 182nm, an average of about 7.6kts per hour.

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see:

http://www.sailmail.com

Bermuda to Newport - Day 2

The passage was easier today although we didn't sail much. Light winds required us to engine in order to make progress. While we try to avoid using the engine, it made for easy night-watches and better sleeps since the bunks were more horizontal than usual. Overall it was a beautiful day with little activity on or around the boat. I did see a container ship, our only vessel sighting, during my last night-watch. When not sleeping, eating or watching what's ahead, I have been reading and my captain spends his leisure time studying weather charts and reports we receive throughout the day via single sideband radio. By the day's end we did another 177nm so we're half-way "home".

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see:

http://www.sailmail.com

Bermuda to Newport - Day 1

The first 24-hours presented a wide range of weather, wind and sea state. Sometimes the conditions were nice and other times uncomfortable. You can always tell things are unpleasant when this sailor girl prefers to skip a meal. Based on the boats requesting permission to exit St George's Harbour over the VHF radio, we know several are making a similar passage, yet the only vessel we have sighted so far was a southbound cruise ship. The best news to report is that we made good progress - 180nm. Approximately 500 more miles to go...

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see:

http://www.sailmail.com

S/V Event Horizon Position Update

5/29/2008 @ 12:00 AM(UTC)
32°54.44'N 065°25.30'W
Course 325T Speed 6.9kts
Wind 295T @ 10kts

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see:

http://www.sailmail.com

Departing BDA

Event Horizon is getting a late start because we have been waiting on a new hatch cover, which is being installed as I type. (Thank you Ocean Sails for your great customer service and excellent canvas work!)

It was nice knowing I could sleep in this morning, but I was up early so I took my favorite walk along the east end of St George’s and also did a bit of beachcombing for sea glass. It’s a gloomy day in Bermuda but the views were still spectacular and the rain held off until after my long walk. Since then the rain has been steady... We are among several boats departing today despite there being no wind this morning and light winds forecasted for the first 12hrs. In the past hour a stiff breeze has arrived so maybe our delay was a good thing.

An interesting fact I want to share is that within 200 miles of Bermuda there are 4 abandoned boats still floating. Alarmingly, two of these vessels may be along our journey’s path. This will keep us wide-eyed and alert during the dark of night!

Preparing for BDA Departure

Our weather router has given us a green light to leave for a few days now but the winds have been light out there and my captain has had a cold so we've been postponing our passage. But the wind is forecasted to pickup and my captain is feeling better so now we’re busy preparing and stowing for an early Wednesday (tomorrow) morning departure, which should put us in Newport by Monday.

Bermuda Day

May 24th...

Recently restored Onion Patch following the Bermuda dinghy races.

The first Bermuda dinghy race of the 2008 season with the St George's Dinghy Club’s team Victory in the foreground.

Summer's Arrival

Yesterday our guests departed by plane, just before the high winds and thick clouds that hampered our social activities all week finally passed over Bermuda. The change in weather also brought the long awaited good weather window for sailing north so there has been a mass exodus of yachts all day.

Lucky for me, there are three reasons why we have decided not to set sail:

1. Our friends aboard Schooner Heron recently arrived and their company is always reason to linger.
2. It looks as though there is another good weather window on Tuesday.
3. Tomorrow is Bermuda Day (May 24th) and our good Bermudian friends insist we stay for the festivities, including the first Bermuda Fitted Dinghy race of the season, which takes place in St George’s Harbour. You can watch it too on the webcam at http://209.240.42.187:1024/index.html

Today is a picture perfect day in Bermuda, as the photo shows. And for a nice change, the weather is warm and the harbour is calm. The same is expected tomorrow for Bermuda Day, one of the most celebrated holidays in Bermuda. It is considered the first day of summer and usually the first day of the year to jump in the ocean. I hope to join in the tradition!

Still Waiting in Bermuda

We’re still waiting in Bermuda as high wind weather systems roll in and out, watching boats arrive with damage and listening to stories of woe on the high seas over the VHF radio.

A friend of ours suffered severe rig damage about 200nm south of Bermuda so he was making way under engine. We were keeping in contact via SMS over satellite phone and had agreed to meet the boat with more fuel once it was about 30nm from Bermuda. Just before we departed on the fuel run, the rig completely failed and soon after they had transmission failure. The 2-man-crew ended up being rescued at sea by a 320-meter container ship. The ship generously towed the sailing vessel but then the tow broke so they were forced to abandon the boat at sea. Later that morning the guys arrived in Bermuda where they became our guests aboard Eve.

It’s been 4 days now and our guests remain in great spirits despite their terrible ordeal. The feeling of loss associated with having to abandon a boat that was a labor of love as well as one’s home and most of its contents must be devastating and overwhelming. I know I wouldn’t be able to deal with it as well as these guys seem to be.

Waiting in Bermuda

We remain in Bermuda waiting for a favorable weather window to return to Rhode Island. We’re not alone. I’ve never seen St George’s Harbour so full of boats, all trying to get north or to Europe for the summer season. My captain and I have been moving Eve around the harbour seeking the best shelter depending on the wind direction. We haven’t been off the boat in over 3 days due to heavy rains and gale force winds, part of which was the wrath of tropical storm Ophelia. Meanwhile boats & ships continue to arrive from the Caribbean with exhausted crew and sometimes with personal injuries or damage to their vessels according to the endless chatter on the VHF radio. (Notice the shredded jib in the photo.)

The winds have finally subsided so I'm needed on deck to lower the dinghy in preparation for going ashore soon for cheeseburgers, news and socializing.

Exploits Ashore

On our first morning at New England Boatworks (NEB) we awoke to cold rain and extra grateful to be ashore. We spent the day trying to keep warm, cleaning Morgan’s Ghost and stuffing our gear in my old car, which serves as a storage container on wheels. By evening my captain, our Bermudian friend and I headed into downtown Newport for a night on the town and we eventually ended up in the jailhouse. I mean the Jailhouse Inn, a restored 1772 landmark that offers luxury contemporary lodging. For years I have wanted to stay at this inn but always figured it was beyond my budget. At the suggestion of locals, I checked it out and found it less expensive than other places on the outskirts of town I have stayed over the years. I must say it was fun being back in Newport – savoring the superior Guinness at The Fastnet Pub, shopping among the unique boutiques and surrounded by all things nautical, but staying in a nice hotel was the pinnacle of my visit. I got up early to watched VH1 music videos while lounging on a king-size bed covered in silky high-thread-count sheets, read a hot-off-the-press newspaper while sipping freshly brewed coffee and finally, soaked up a hot shower while applying an assortment of complimentary fancy English toiletries. By 10am I was standing on the cobblestones dragging my Bermudian friend to favorite day-time spots along the main drag of Newport. (My captain spent the day at NEB as Morgan’s Ghost was being hauled for some scheduled maintenance.)
By late afternoon my captain picked us up in the storage container on wheels and we headed for Boston. That evening we enjoyed a cozy gathering of the crew and friends at the Washington Square Tavern (owned by our other crew member) where all partook in delicious food, fine wine and lots of laughs. Our final day was spent in Boston accomplishing errands (including new ATM cards) and visiting a few favorite places because we felt obligated (and lucky) to entertain our visiting crew member. On Wednesday morning we three took a Jet Blue direct flight to Bermuda where my captain and I were back aboard Eve by noon. While fun was surely had, it feels good to be home sweet home.

Morgan’s Ghost Appears

On Tuesday, April 29th four of us departed St George’s Harbour aboard Morgan’s Ghost, a Swan Club 42, bound for Newport, Rhode Island. This two-year-old yacht was built for racing – meaning she lacks the comforts of most offshore yachts. She’s light weight (under 14 gross tons) and her deck is open to the elements so we spent the 4.5 day passage harnessed in and holding on. Our 700nm journey was a mix of high seas, strong winds and light breezes so we got the full experience. We arrived at New England Boatworks (NEB) Saturday evening, May 3rd with no damages to report – bruises have yet to be tallied.
Hamilton, Bermuda based Morgan’s Ghost (BER 542) will be among over 200 boats sailing in the famous Newport to Bermuda Race in June.

Update From Bermuda

We’ve already been here a week! We’ve been visiting our Bermudian friends and watching our tans fade. The cloudy sky and cool breezes have forced me into wearing pants most days and giving my captain reason to pause regarding our departure further north.

We continue to hear horror stories from people who used the bank in Antigua. The theory is that the phone lines used for doing bank transactions were tapped because the crooks also got pin numbers – they print new ATM cards using the real (stolen) account numbers with another name that matches their id and because they also know the pin number, they can get cash. I though I was so smart draining my account but earlier this week I noticed it was nearly $2000 overdrawn. I purposefully do not have an overdraft service, but according to my bank they sometimes have a “cushion” for accounts considered to be in “good standing”. Lucky me. The two biggest transactions were $1000 cash from a Post Office and a $500 ATM withdraw both on the same day in a town in Illinois. I never withdraw that much, never mind on the same day. Lucky for me I was out at sea and have paperwork to prove it. However I still must deal with claim papers to clear up the mess, which I have to sign before they can be processed! Never did like this bank… Apparently the US banks have deferred making some security changes to keep up with the times (relative to other parts of the world) because it is so expensive. No wonder our banking fees keep going up - we’re covering people’s fraud claims.

We’ve been asked to deliver a Bermuda based racing boat, a Swan Club 42, to Newport. We set sail shortly. This will be a unique experience because this boat, while new, is a very light weight boat and it lacks many of the modern conveniences I have grown so accustomed to such as heat, a real galley and other basic living comforts. We also won’t have single sideband radio but I will attempt to post a blog via satellite phone for the first time. We have two additional crew making the passage and no doubt their helping hands will make things easier for me. It should take us less than 5 days to reach Newport.

St Martin to Bermuda – Arrival

Day 6 of our passage consisted of only ten hours and a total of 65nm by way of sail and engine power. We arrived in St George’s Harbour under a cloudy sky and wearing fleece.

Since the winter of 2005, each time I arrive in Bermuda I get an odd yet nice feeling, like one gets when you visit some place that holds a special memory. Upon reaching the Customs dock we were welcomed in a distinctive accent and an extra friendly manner, both so wonderfully Bermudian. After our paperwork was complete we anchored in the main Convict Bay anchorage area – you can probably see us on the web cam. We decided to leave the fenders and warps on until this morning just in case we got a visit from the police, customs or sniffer dogs like last year, but so far no visitors.

We enjoyed a nice motionless dinner at the dining table and celebrated with a bottle of Stags’ Leap Winery (2000) Napa Valley Petite Syrah, for years one of my favorite wines. Better still was 9 hours of uninterrupted sleep.

Total passage: 5 ½ days and 884 nautical miles.

St Martin to Bermuda - Day 5

We spent most of our time watching the Ockam sailing instruments, which I call the boat's entertainment center, with the intensity one might watch a finals sporting event, willing Eve towards the finish line. Overall wind conditions improved allowing us to sail most of the day, get closer to our rhumb line and accomplish 160nm.

During watches my captain spotted a distant ship and a sea bird, and I averted a buoy - not sure if it was for Oceanography or deep-water lobster. One thing I have failed to mention in my daily passage entry is air temperature. With each day my captain and I have needed less sunscreen and with each night watch we've wanted another layer of clothing. A couple of days ago a cold front met up with us requiring the immediate excavation of all cold weather clothing. By last night we were wearing full gear (minus socks) on deck and my captain turned the heat on down below. We didn't expect to experience these cold weather adjustments until after we departed Bermuda. I suspect I'll be doing more blog whining than usual in the next few weeks...

As far out as 110nm we started hearing the familiar voices of Bermuda Radio hailing traffic within 30nm of Bermuda and often guiding boats into St George's Harbour. Soon they'll be talking to us because we've less than 45nm to go.

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see:

http://www.sailmail.com

St Martin to Bermuda - Day 4

Another slow day... We changed from a 100% to a light-weight 135% jib to help with our light wind dilemma but we still needed the engine to move forward on and off during the first sixteen hours. The wind situation improved around midnight with a steady 16kt breeze and for the past 8 hours we have enjoyed making way in the right direction, close hauled. The sea state is gradually decreasing but remains large enough at 5-8ft. Still no sightings, just us surrounded by lots of water. This time last year on the same passage I saw pods of dolphins and whales everyday, especially after dawn. I can't help but wonder why things are so different this year... Day's run was 153nm. We've about 200nm yet to go based on our current point of sail, so if our luck holds we should arrive in Bermuda on Sunday.

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see:

http://www.sailmail.com

St Martin to Bermuda - Day 3

We spent the day under a thick canopy of clouds but didn't mind because it was a welcomed reprieve from the sun's rays. The daylight hours were surprisingly almost rain free but by night we were visited by squalls. Throughout the day the wind continued to lighten resulting in a disappointing day's run of only 156nm. Early in the day we did a port jibe attempting to get us closer to our rhumb line, which we did but by the end of the day the wind direction forced us back to where we had started, 40nm to the right. While the wind was directly behind us, we opted against a spinnaker due to the sea state and instead sailed wing-on-wing with the jib poled out. Wind became more scarce as my first night watch started at 8pm. At this point the flogging of the sails was painful so we went under engine for 4.5 hours. By then the wind was from the north as forecasted. The wind remains light (unless we are near a squall) but now the boat is sailing close hauled (35 degrees apparent) just the way she and my captain prefer. As for the sea state, now there is less wave chop but the 8-10ft swells remain. This was our second straight day without traffic or wildlife sightings. We still have nearly 350nm yet to go and another three days at sea, based on the rate of progress as I write.

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see:

http://www.sailmail.com

St Martin to Bermuda - Day 2

Lighter wind resulted in slower progress. As forecasted, the wind gradually clocked behind us and eventually forced us east of our rhumb line. Building seas. Overall an uneventful day. Still no wildlife sightings, aside from flying fish. Day's run was 169nm, approx 500nm yet to go.

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see:

http://www.sailmail.com

St Martin to Bermuda - Day 1

Before we had even lifted the anchor, my captain and I were commenting about our screaming feet. After months of happily walking free or relaxing in flip-flops, wearing what used to be comfortable sailing shoes now felt like footwear prison. What wasn't said out loud, but I know we were both thinking it, was that this is only the first of many readjustments we will be making as we return to New England.

By 8am we were under full sail. We had comfortable sailing conditions for our fist 24-hours, just the right amount of wind on our beam and moderate seas. No wildlife sightings.

Days run 180nm - approx 670nm yet to go.

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see:

http://www.sailmail.com

No Scurvy Here

For weeks I have been trying to persuade my captain to delay our journey north. Ever since my wish was granted (due to weather uncertainty near Bermuda), the sky above St Martin has been filled with dark clouds gifting showers and her waters rough from wind. Since this weather has made outside activities less inviting, I started reading my book selection intended for the passage.


And since this uncharacteristic weather has continued, I finished my book. Scurvy, by historical writer Stephen R Brown, combines maritime, medical and exploration history to explain the greatest medical mystery during the Age of Sail and reveals how scurvy was a crucial link in the chain of events that shaped the world as we know it. Despite already knowing the importance of Vitamin C, I found myself popping an extra Vitamin C tablet each day I absorbed this interesting read.

Holding in Marigot

The computer models are still disagreeing and our narrow window of opportunity is closing. Since the worst case scenario involves a small storm building near Bermuda, we will remain in a holding pattern until at least Tuesday morning.

We’ve pumped the dinghy back up and put the outboard engine on so we can get to shore and access the internet for more weather reports while we wait...

Delayed in Marigot

Our last minute check of the weather revealed uncertainty just shy of Bermuda. The computer models used to predict the weather were showing conflicting results. Therefore we have opted to stay put until the models agree. Meanwhile our clearance paperwork is complete and everything is stowed, including the dinghy, so my captain is pacing the deck as we wait for the "green light" to lift the anchor and be on our way north.

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see:

http://www.sailmail.com

Caribbean Departure

Sad but true. I am only hours from departing St Martin for a non-stop passage to Bermuda. We have a short but good weather window for what we hope will be a 6 day trip. At least part of the 860 nautical mile journey will be in the glorious Caribbean Sea and then I will have a few days in beautiful Bermuda before we make the final and toughest passage to New England.

The above photo was taken underwater next to the boat in Marigot Bay. What the photo doesn't reveal is the true scale. This was one of several very large starfish initially spotted from the boat's deck.

ATM Drama

While strolling the Sint Maarten docks one evening, we ran into a fellow sailor last seen while we were all in Antigua. He was the barer of some important bad news. The (one and only) ATM that services Antigua’s Falmouth and English Harbour areas was part of an ATM card cloning scam. His shipmates had already lost thousands from their bank accounts. We were quick to check our balances and relieved to find we were safe, at least so far. We’d also heard some people were experiencing delays in fraudulent activity. So as a precaution, I withdrew my daily limits to drain my account and my captain ran his balance down and closely monitored the account in an attempt to still have access to more money since we will remain far away from our banks and the USA for a few more weeks. Meanwhile we notified our guests and other sailor friends that were also in Antigua during our stay. The plan seemed to be working until yesterday when my captain’s bank notified him that his ATM was cancelled due to “irregular activity” and hours later our guests experienced the same. Now we all remain shutoff from our funds until we have access to new ATM cards. At least my captain and I are only hours away from setting sail to Bermuda so we won’t be spending any money for about 5 days.

Feeding Frenzy

This season I learned a little trick for attracting the cute little reef fish while snorkeling. Take something like dry cereal or dry bread and place it in a small airtight plastic bag. Put a tiny hole in one corner of the bag so you can slowly release its contents as you squeeze the bag underwater.

This trick has worked like a charm, often luring skittish fish out of hiding and some will follow as you release the snack. It’s amazing to turn around and see an array of these colorful reef fish so close to you. On the downside, I have not been successful at handling the snack bag and my camera at the same time so I have no proof.

The other day I went snorkeling with a snack bag – only melba toasts this time, which seemed to work better than cereal. Before too long I had fish following me without releasing any food. I waited until I was surrounded by a sizable group of these cute and colorful fish and then motioned for my snorkeling partner to join me for “the show”. As I waved her over, I inadvertently released a little food. This is when my fun ended. More fish joined what appeared to be a tornado of feeding fish next to me. When the food was gone the situation got worse. They remembered I was the source and came after me. I was frantically trying to swat them away as they started to nip at me. As I swatted I accidentally released more food and the nipping turned into biting. This is when I was forced to let go of the bag in hopes of making an escape. This decision allowed me to loose most of the pack and the few fish that followed were persuaded to leave by my frantic motions. At a distance I watched as a huge blur swirled around the tiny bag until it was shredded. Even from a distance, after the feeding frenzy some of the fish saw me and came closer. The little fish no longer looked cute. I swam as fast and with as much motion as possible to the safety of the dinghy.

Oh yeah, and for days I had teeth marks to prove it.

Lesson learned. Do not feed the fish – no matter how small or cute you think they are!

Winter Finale

We’re back in St Martin enjoying the company of guests and doing some of our favorite Saint Martin and Sint Maarten things as well as making new discoveries. I’m being extra appreciative since I know my Caribbean winter is coming to a close. Although not my favorite Caribbean island because it’s not as “native” feeling, you can’t help but love all the comforts of St Martin; duty free shopping and stores for just about anything you can need or want including boat stuff, bakeries & restaurants (especially the French side) and bars & nightlife (especially the Dutch side). Plus you get the two-countries-in-one feeling by just taking a dingy ride through the lagoon or jumping in a taxi.
Simply stated, St Martin is a small slice of Europe surrounded by sandy beaches and warm turquoise waters.