Around Antigua

Soon after our arrival to Antigua we were joined by the Healey sisters for a week. It was an exciting action packed holiday for all of us as we walked, drove, sailed, swam, ate and drank our way around the island originally called Wadadli by its native Indians. Our mutual friend, also in Antigua for the week, summed it up best when he said “it was more fun than required!” (above photo is of Willoughby Bay)

Fig Tree Drive Produce Stand

Jolly Harbour

Half Moon Bay

Harmony Hall

Betty’s Hope Plantation

Devil’s Bridge

Sailing around the south coast of Antigua

Snorkeling off Green Island

Nonsuch Bay

See more Antigua photos.

Shirley Heights

Going to Shirley Heights is and for a long time has been the thing to do on Sunday’s in Antigua. The view alone is worth the taxi fare. Shirley Heights is positioned above English Harbour and offers views extending past Falmouth Harbour. For $20 EC you can join the party as early as 4 PM. It's fun suitable for all ages and it's a mix of tourists, yachties and locals. Listen to a steel band while you watch the sun go down and eat barbeque. Later dance to another band, often reggae music. The festivities last about 6 hours.

Take caution when consuming the tasty rum punch because they sneak up on you (so I’ve been told). Another word of caution, choose your footwear carefully because the ground is extremely uneven and challenging. Cheers!

Safe Yachting Haven

My captain is delighted to be back in the safe yachting haven of Antigua (pronounced an-TEE-gah).

For the first time in months there is no need to lift (winch by hand) the heavy dinghy onto the mother ship’s foredeck each night, nor must we use a heavy gage chain to lock the dinghy to the dock when we go ashore. Plus there is less worry when we go ashore, especially at night that our floating home might be missing some of its contents when we return.

To date we have been fortunate and not suffered theft but others’ misfortunes have taught us to take precautions. Dinghies and outboard motors, especially Yamaha outboards, are the most popular items stolen. While these are an expensive loss, the worst part is the inconvenience of being without “a car” as replacements are not always available. Our concerns have been beyond theft. Based on word of mouth – so a dash of rumor and a splash of gossip – violent crimes on yachts are on the increase in some areas, or at a minimum they are being reported more. We read about a string of violent incidences that occurred earlier this year in a beautiful bay we had just anchored in for a night. But we’re in Antigua now so we can relax, at least more than we’ve been able to since arriving to the Caribbean.

As I mentioned, my captain couldn’t be happier about our new neighborhood. Safety and more floating money - in the form of yachts - than one can count. I on the other hand already miss the islands I have left behind. Here there is an absence of smiling islanders willing to share a slice of their island culture with me. Instead I mostly see people without smiles charging me high prices because I’m on a boat and everywhere I can go on foot I am surrounded by people like myself. My mission is to explore Antigua beyond the yachtie comfort zones of Falmouth and English Harbours…

Ok, I also feel the need to mention that these incredible yachts make me feel like an under achiever.

Dominica to Antigua

Our anchor was up by 4am and soon after we were under sail. It was a beautiful day with mostly 15-22kt winds and a gentle sea state – all the makings for a perfect sail. The majority of the 92 nautical mile passage was sailing along the leeward shore of Guadeloupe so we also enjoyed stunning scenery.

Just past Guadeloupe we were visited by a large pod of dolphins. This time last year I wouldn’t have thought this worth mentioning but it was our first dolphin sighting since mid December, something that still surprises us. Where have all the dolphins gone? Nor have we seen any whales this winter. Hopefully our lack of sightings is only due to bad timing.

We’re happily anchored in Falmouth Harbour, Antigua and surrounded by some of the world’s most beautiful and valuable yachts.

A Taste of Dominica

This unplanned two day visit to only a small section of Dominica will remain one of my most memorable Caribbean experiences. Dominica allowed me a glimpse of what the Caribbean was like before mass tourism.

At 29 by 16 miles (46 by 25km), Dominica is one of the larger Lesser Antilles islands yet the poorest and least developed. Many of the 70,000 islanders live off the land.

My captain and I spent our first day walking the streets and entering the small shops in the town of Portsmouth. Although one of the island’s main towns it feels more like a rural village. The main streets were mostly lined with old small wooden buildings with corrugated tin roofs or newer concrete buildings with a commercial business on the bottom and living quarters above. Along the main road, just off the commercial area, I saw people washing clothes at a communal roadside water-pump. Outhouses are common. It reminded me of trips to the rural south (USA) during my youth, complete with the sweet sounds of Charlie Pride blaring from a one-room home.

The locals are friendly and open to conversation. They seem to know they live in a magical place and treasure its resources. I admire this wisdom as well as their adoration for this land they call home despite the lack of jobs and in general limited access to material things and opportunities. I hope I’ve learned a lesson here.
This lush volcanic island is ideal for nature lovers and people who seek simplicity. Although it has some beaches, I’ve learned Dominica is valued more for its interior filled with mountains, rain forests, rivers and waterfalls. I took an exciting trip up the Indian River (shown above and below) that is considered a mini-Amazon full of mangroves and exotic flora. I felt like the queen of the Nile on this river journey because it was just me and my guide (also a “boat boy” called Raymond or “Ravioli") who steadily rowed while proudly imparting information about our surroundings and fun facts about Dominica. I saw wildlife too; several humming birds hard at work, other birds I’d never seen before, a large male iguana sunning in a tree, schools of mullets in the river and several crabs along the shore. Part of this jungle was the setting for Pirates of the Caribbean 2 & 3.
Portsmouth is authentic so it’s idea for tasting Caribbean food and experiencing island culture. The restaurants and roadside snack huts serve tasty “home-cooking”, including rotis which are a favorite of mine. One evening my captain and I had a delicious dinner at Big Papa's Restaurant where I watch them cut up the local catch of the day and it was serves with an assortment of traditional side dishes. For our last evening my new pal Raymond took us on a typical local’s Friday night out where we went from restaurants to snack bars enjoying Kubuli (Dominican brewed beer), reggae sounds and the people of Portsmouth.

See additional photos of Indian River & Portsmouth in the Commonwealth of Dominica.

Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica

We dropped anchor in Prince Rupert Bay, located in the northeast corner of Dominica (pronounced dom-in-EE-ka). It is considered to be Dominica’s best anchorage and conveniently borders the black (volcanic) sand Purple Turtle Beach and the town of Portsmouth.

We showered our salt encrusted bodies and put on dry clean clothes. Life was good again. We carried our tired bodies back on deck to relax while admiring our lush surroundings. Moments later a sea turtle appeared along side us and our smiles widened.

We were gradually greeted by “boat boys” offering their services or products for sale. I found them helpful, but then I always ask questions as if they are the official tourism board, including “where’s the place to be tonight?” In this case they each had the same reply, “Big Papa’s!” (a popular beachside restaurant) because Wednesday’s reggae night.

By 7pm we were struggling to keep awake so we decided to stay in and give the music a miss. Around 10pm I was woken by incredible reggae music (not my favorite music genre) that made me regret not going in to see the band. The longer I listened the more impressed I became so I tried with all my might to climb out of bed but my body refused. So I lay in bed enjoying the sounds. The next morning most of the other boats departed - they had been in the know and were here for reggae night. Later it was confirmed by Big Papa himself that we had missed a great party and some famous people in the crowd (who were on the mega yacht behind us). But I was relived knowing I hadn’t missed one of the world’s best reggae bands– it had been a DJ!

Northbound - Day 1

Despite over 24 uncomfortable wet and windy hours offshore and a few days to spare, my captain ignored my pleas to stop at an island – any island – before reaching Antigua. For the first time in months we were forced to sail close hauled as we work our way windward. This sailor had forgotten just how uncomfortable the sailing life can be. Only one day at sea and yet my soggy body ached as if I’d been soaking in salt water and confined to the cockpit for days. During a moment of silent encouragement when the only positive thought I could muster was at least the water is warm, I heard my captain shout “let’s go dry our knickers” and we changed course for Dominica.

Northbound

With the arrival of March and my captains desire to return to New England as soon as possible, it is time to begin our journey north. Thankfully we will be making stops along the way to meet friends who’ve decided to join us for a few days of boat camping. Our first scheduled stop is Antigua but I’ve my fingers crossed and I’m on my best behavior in hopes that my captain will let us visit one of the several islands we sailed past on our southbound passage. I’ll keep you posted.

The Grenada Chocolate Company

For several days I was plagued with a bought of insomnia. It was my clever captain that solved the mystery. My restless nights coincided with my latest caloric addiction, dark chocolate made by The Grenada Chocolate Company.

My pre-arrival research revealed the existence of The Grenada Chocolate Company so upon reaching Grenada I was immediately on the hunt for this intriguing local confection. I soon secured my first 4 oz. bar of organic cocoa goodness and quickly fell into a bar a day habit. They make a 60% and a 71% cocoa chocolate bar – both delicious dark chocolate. My preference changes regularly, often depending on what I am pairing it with or what time of the day I’m savoring. For example, before noon or when eating mango I usually prefer the 60%, yet in the evenings or when drinking red wine (always after noon!) I gravitate to the 71%. But neither will ever disappoint!

While a believer in the health benefits of cocoa and someone who always keeps a stash of good chocolate on hand, I quickly preferred Grenada Chocolate because of its wonderful rich flavor and smoothness. It wasn’t until after the consumption of numerous bars and a trip their cocoa farm in northern Grenada that I learned the other reasons to favor The Grenada Chocolate Company’s chocolate. The company is an environmentally friendly co-operative that ensures all workers are paid fairly while producing organic chocolate from tree to bar in a unique small batch process using solar energy to power their factory.
All this goodness doesn’t come cheap but it’s worth every penny. I’m not the only one impressed. It won the Academy of Chocolate's 2008 Silver Award for the Best Organic Chocolate in the world and before that other aficionados deemed it "the best chocolate in the world".

Due to my unfortunate sensitivity to caffeine I’ve had to put a daily 6pm curfew on my consumption. Sadder yet is that I miscalculated my inventory needs (I’m already unwrapping bars purchased for gifts!) and will be depleted before I’m able to secure another order. Soon I’ll be forced to make due with those other chocolates for a while.
If you get to Grenada, take the time to travel to the lush rainforest area of St Patrick’s parish to visit the Belmont Estate and take a tour to learn how chocolate is made from tree to package at The Grenada Chocolate Company. If you can’t make it to Grenada, treat yourself or someone you love to their chocolate.

Additional photos taken at the Belmont Estate of The Grenada Chocolate Company can be viewed at Flickr.com.

Getting to Know Grenada

I’ve been exploring more of this 12 x 21 mile island known as the Isle of Spice, because it has more spices per square mile than any other place on the planet and has long been a major source of nutmeg, mace, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, turmeric and cocoa. Grenadan's call nutmeg "black gold" because it's their #1 export crop and it's two spices in one - nutmeg & mace.

Grenada recently celebrated 34 years of independence with great enthusiasm evident by the remaining waving flags and national colors of green, red and gold painted on just about any and everything throughout the island. The green stands for her lush vegetation, the red for her past history of struggle and conflict, and the gold for her sunshine.

Grenada has picturesque mountains, tropical flowers, beaches, waterfalls, lush rainforests, and crater lakes. But it was not Grenada's physical beauty that impressed me most but rather her rich history and current living cultural heritage.

A couple of interesting facts:
- 65% of Grenadan's are under 25-years of age.
- China built Grenada's new cricket stadium and continues to invest in the island with laborers, money and commitments for additional building projects.

Top photo shown is the Grenada Dove. Additional photos of Grenada can be viewed at Flickr.com.

Grenada

On Saturday Feb 23rd we departed Union Island for Grenada (pronounced gre-NAY-da), our furthest Caribbean destination. Steady strong winds made for a fast 45nm passage that took us past the west side of the Grenada Grenadines, then east to avoid the no-sail zone of an underwater volcano. From there we sailed the recommended route along Grenada’s east side before heading west until we reached Prickly Bay. Customs and Immigration are nearby and conveniently cater to visiting yachts.
Grenada, like all the Windward Islands, is volcanic and mountainous with lush vegetation. I know this from what I have read and can see from the boat. Grenada also has good Internet services. We actually have a strong and inexpensive connection (HotHotHotSpot.com) from the boat so we’ve (sadly) been glued to our computers and other data gadgets since we arrived. We plan to stay at least a couple more days so that we can explore Grenada’s interior, which has been highly recommended to us by sailors and Caribbean natives.

Union Island

We approached Union Island while the sun was high and to our back so we could clearly see the surrounding reef upon entering the main port of Clifton. Although small it’s a busy place full of character, especially the colorful outdoor market. Union is the last of the St Vincent Grenadines (some of the Grenadines belong to Grenada) so it’s a popular stop for boats (often charter) to check in or out. For reasons I can’t completely explain, this was my favorite island among the Grenadines. In part because people were welcoming and helpful but not in a way that made you fear they might be taking advantage of you, which was the case in some islands. I like that the island and its populous are small and yet it has good shops, restaurants and bars. Most of all Union felt authentic and the locals graciously allowed us to get a taste for their island among their good company. Favorite times were at the Determination Bar and on Happy Island (a man-made island from reef and conch shells) in Clifton, and at Jerry’s and Shark Attack’s in Chatham Bay.

Union is a great place to hike with rewarding views and for diving or snorkeling among the reefs. I visited Chatham Bay a couple of times to snorkel off Rapid Point which was teeming with an array of colorful coral, plant life and fish. While snorkeling I could see birds, sometimes pelicans, diving into the water claiming fish. Most visitors in Chatham Bay arrive by boat seeking the large bay's protected anchorage and the three beach bars along the beach that also serve tasty local catch dinners. Otherwise one can take a taxi to “the path” and from there you must hike down a steep trail – just follow the goat droppings.

Tobago Cays

This place has been on my travel hit list for years so it was naturally my most anticipated stop. Now officially called the Tobago Cays Marine Park ($10 EC per person, per day fee towards maintaining and protecting the park) these five tiny uninhabited islands are surrounded by the appropriately named Horseshoe Reef. These coconut palm studded and white sand rimmed islands are surrounded by water and reef in breathtaking shades of blue and green. Whether looking at or from the islands, the views are spectacular.

I could not get my snorkeling gear on fast enough…Mask defogged, flippers on and camera in hand, I spent most of our stay in the water. Unfortunately hurricanes Ivan and Emily caused considerable damage to Horseshoe Reef so although it is in recovery, I was disappointed by the reef’s condition and underwater plant life. It was also very windy during our visit so we experienced reduced visibility and turbulence while snorkeling.

We had intended to stay longer but due to the strong winds, crowds of boats, disappointing snorkeling and with more Grenadines to explore, we decided to make our way to Union Island, only about 5nm away.

Additional Caribbean photos can be viewed at Flickr.com.

Bequia

Our 2-day stay in Bequia (pronounced Bek-way) was too short to properly explore her 7 sq miles (18 sq km). This island is a favorite among sailors probably because her history is closely tied to the sea and the locals seem to cater to sailors, especially in Admiralty Bay where we moored. Bequia’s legacy with the sea continues as evidenced in their tourist industry based on visiting yachts and continued traditions of wooden boat building, model boat building, fishing and whaling. Yes, on the rare occasion they still practice traditional whaling.

Day one we walked the streets of Port Elizabeth and entered most of the shops. I was very impressed by the local arts and crafts offerings – these people need a website to sell internationally! I also enjoyed the sport of shopping at the market block for fresh local produce. I continue to be amazed by the selection of fruits and vegetables in the Caribbean that I had never known about before. I’ve become a fan of several fruits whose names I still do not know because I swear people call them different names, and along with their accents, I’m more puzzled with each purchase. I should be writing the names down…

Day two we took advantage of the fairly priced taxi services to see more of the island and visit Friendship Bay for more snorkeling and cocktails at Moskito (which looks fantastic for a nice dinner). Then we taxied north to visit the Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary before heading to the new Firefly Bequia for sundowners. (Spring on Bequia has had an incredible make-over and is now a Firefly.)

As my photo proves, I finally got the nerve to try out the underwater case for my camera. Technically it was a success but I clearly need to practice taking photos while moving with the current. In most cases by the time I managed to stay still long enough for the camera to focus, the fish were gone. Thank goodness it’s digital.

As we departed Bequia under sail, we managed to get close enough to her southeast shore to view (with binoculars) the fascinating Moonhole homes.

Additional photos of my stay in The Grenadines can be viewed on Flickr.com in my Caribbean 2008 file. Next stop is the greatly anticipated Tobago Cays…

Mustique

Also called billionaires’ island, Mustique is known for its famous residents who live among the islands luxurious villas – over 60 of which are available for weekly rental. It wasn’t the star spotting that lured us to the shores of this 1.5 by 3 mile (2.5 by 5km) island. We went to lunch at what is reputed to be the Caribbean’s best beach bar, Basil’s. Upon approach to Britannia Bay we were escorted to a sturdy mooring by the Mustique Harbormaster. (Moorings are $75 EC and that price entitles you to stay for up to three nights.) Soon after we piled into the dinghy and headed for Basil’s beach bar, which is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner 365 days a year. What I liked most about this beach bar is that it is big, has real furniture, interesting Balinese carvings and a wooden (verses sand) floor, which is more of a deck that extends out over the water. We enjoyed a waterside table complete with the sound of water lapping beneath us. We all ordered different lunch items but the meager portions did not impress and they should have given the heartbeat-skipping-high prices. Perhaps our expectations were too high?

Next we strolled along the waterfront through the island’s only commercial area (bakery, general store, food store, local produce stand, fish market and a couple of boutiques), which is impressive considering the island’s small size and population. By now it was time for an afternoon swim so we returned to the boat. Our swim was not as tranquil as the water appeared because upon diving in our boat neighbors informed us they’ve been seeing a shark in the water. We all managed to go for a swim unharmed but were constantly on the look-out.

Another libation destination on our must-do list was Firefly. A posh hotel that claims they’re “Not an hotel - An experience”. (I struggle with their use of “an” verses “a”.) All I know is that any of their 5 rooms for the night will set you back a month’s mortgage payment. My cruising budget typically limits my point of entry to the bar or lounge area of such swanky places so that’s where we went. The Firefly lounge did not disappoint with its beautiful yet comfortable setting and fantastic views of the anchorage perfect for a special cocktail hour. And to date, they served the best rum punch. They also have a restaurant that I would try on my next visit because the prices are on par with the beach bar yet the Firefly atmosphere is on another stratosphere.
The next day we rented a mule. Not the hairy four-legged type. A metal four-wheel cruising machine. For about $85 USD for 24hrs, our Kawasaki Mule maximized our visit by taking us on a land cruise that revealed breath taking vistas, magazine-worthy homes and incredible beaches including:

Endeavour Bay, bordering the grounds of the Cotton House resort, was a fun place to snorkel. Plus the Cotton House’s waterside Beach Café served us a special lunch of local seafood. The resort also offers beachside pampering; chaise lounges, umbrellas and drinks – if you can stay out of the water long enough!

Macaroni Bay is a perfect picnic beach since there are no nearby amenities and during our visit its dramatic waves were ideal for body surfing. (My last wave resulted in an uncontrolled double summersault exit that required a couple of Ibuprofen.)

On our last evening we decided to give Basil’s another try since it was their famous Wednesday night ‘Jump-Up’. Unfortunately we were again left wondering why all the hype because this jump-up resembled a boring wedding with a bad band lost in the 70’s. Time to move on...

The Grenadines

With guests on board we set sail to experience The Grenadines, a group of 32 islands and cays south of St Vincent and north of Grenada. First stop Mustique…

Kingstown, St Vincent

Most cruisers take advantage of “local services” that can clear St Vincent customs and immigration for you, or go to the nearby airport. But it was one of those rare days when my captain was up for a land adventure so we elected to take a taxi into Kingstown, only a few miles away just past the airport, to clear customs (near the cruise ship terminal) and immigration (at the downtown police station). We wouldn’t recommend this method of checking in but it all turned out fine for us. We had a great local taxi driver who waited for us at each stop (apparently this is how they do things here) and answered my numerous questions about St Vincent, and we experienced unusually short lines at each official stop. Best of all, it was a market day (Friday & Saturday are the main market days) so Kingstown was bustling. As my readers know, going to the local market (ideally outside stalls) is always at the top of my to-do-list at each new port of call. So while our taxi happily waited, I dragged my captain through the market rows to exam more mysterious root vegetables and fruits, and down a few streets trying to absorb the culture of St Vincent. Our taxi driver delivered us back to Villa village at a cost only slightly above the published roundtrip taxi rate. Of course, he didn't have change...

St Vincent Arrival

It was as if the powers that be didn’t want us to leave St Martin…At first it was delay due to repairs, then it was our desire and duty to watch the Patriots in the Superbowl. In the end we had trouble checking out since we’d checked in (after Saba) with a guest that we’d forgotten to take off the manifest because they intended to make the sail south with us until the repairs were further delayed. A few phone calls, emails and hours later, we finally got our clearance papers. Now all we had to do was lift, clean and put away the dinghy. This too proved to be a difficult task. Proof that we had stayed too long, the outboard engine lock had seized, and seized tight. A can of Lanocote and couple of hours later, my captain managed to unlock our engine theft device. By now it was early evening so we opted to get a good night’s sleep before setting sail. As it was we’d expected to spend two days and two nights at sea on this direct passage, but there was no reason to make it three nights.

It was a good decision because the passage required our full attention with winds usually well above 20kts and an active sea state. More often than not we had a reef in both the main and the 100% jib, and at night with gusts to 30kts we had two reefs in the main. Our one port-tack sail was also a wet ride with frequent breaking waves over the port side. During the first day we took on one large wave that arched above us and then fell in such a way that it immediately filled both cockpits. Removing the salt residue from our sunglasses in order to see was a full-time job. We couldn’t remember the last time we were so salty! Even our lips hurt.

I often complain about how people falsely think we’re lounging and sipping drinks on deck because we rarely get a chance to lounge and we never “drink” during a sail. So, shame on me for having such an idyllic image of island hopping in the Caribbean. I thought we’d surely have a nice leisurely sail down island. A good weather window, sunshine, and warm weather, perfect right? As experienced, I have since read the short passages between islands are often difficult due to high winds, erratic downdrafts and strong currents.
As far as we know, we made the 343nm trip to southern St Vincent without any damage, aside from a few bruises. We’re currently on a Charlie Tango mooring between the mainland and Young Island, surrounded by picturesque views and happily salt-free.

St Maarten Repairs Complete

Repairs took longer than expected but they are finally complete, including a new super-sized bail and a reinforced gooseneck, and Eve is put back together again. Preparing for departure, next stop St Vincent.

Sint Maarten’s Increased Fees

The dramatic increase in fees on the Dutch side has taken everyone by surprise. This includes an increase in harbor fees payable whether staying inside or outside the lagoon and bridge openings.

Simpson Bay or Simpson Bay Lagoon Harbor Fees
Cost per week or portion of a week for boats is:
$20 USD 8 – 13 meters in length
$40 USD 13 - 18 meters in length
$60 USD 18 - 23 meters in length (and so on)

Vessels Entering the Lagoon
Special openings $1,000 USD.
$10 USD 9 – 12 meters in length
$30 USD 12 – 15 meters in length
$60 USD 15 – 18 meters in length
$120 USD 18 – 22 meters in length
$200 USD 22 – 28 meters in length (and so on)

Additional Fees
Based on tonnage:
Customs clearance fee $2 - $9 USD
Harbor clearance fee $5 - $20

Another change worth mentioning is that the Coast Guard has been enforcing the 5mph speed limit in the lagoon. (Another form of entertainment best viewed from the St Maarten Yacht Club.)

By the way, there are no fees on the French side when staying outside the lagoon and we found the anchorages to be more comfortable.

Bridge Openings

A favorite activity of boat enthusiasts is hanging out at the Sint Maarten Yacht Club to watch the bridge openings. (9:00 outbound, 9:30 inbound, 11:00 outbound, 11:30 inbound, 4:30 outbound, 5:30 inbound) The yacht club offers the best view of the parade of boats going in and out of the Simpson Bay Lagoon.

During the yachting high season (December – April) it’s amazing to see so many incredible mega yachts in one place.
This yacht club is unlike most in that anyone and everyone is welcome. It’s especially fun during happy hour (4-5:30) when a cold bottle of beer is just $1. Be sure to get your order in before the bridge reopens for the inbound boats at 5:30 because that signals the end of happy hour.

Delayed in St Maarten

Due to the bail breakage, the guys were forced to engine, verses sail, back to Sint Maarten. Unfortunately for them it was a rough and rainy day to be at sea. To quote my captain “It was miserable!” Meanwhile us girls continued our exploration of Saba and flew back to St Maarten, allowing us a take-off from the world’s smallest commercial airport runway.

Apparently the bail failure was related to the gooseneck damage suffered during our ocean crossing. We had no choice but to delay our departure and make repairs. We have opted to take advantage of FKG, a reputable marine rigging and fabrication shop here in St Maarten.

Saba

In mid January we, a crew of four, took a little sail about 28 nautical miles south of Sint Maarten to the island of Saba (pronounced "SAY-ba").

Just short of reaching Saba we heard a loud bang and noticed our bail had broke. (A bail is what holds the main sheet to the boom, and ours happens to be metal.) Due to the fast actions of my captain and some engineering ingenuity, disaster was averted.

Saba is the smallest island (5 sq. miles) of the Netherlands Antilles and can be best described as a dormant volcano, called Mount Scenery, rising out of the Caribbean Sea to a peak of about 877m (3000ft).

We moored off Wells Bay and then the captain gave us a dinghy ride to the pebbly shoreline that seemed determined to keep us away. Once we finally made it ashore we hiked The Ladder, an 800-step stairway chipped out by pioneers. (see photo) As the brochures say, it’s for the fit so we had to stop often on the way up but this gave us cause to turn around and enjoy the view.

With advanced planning, the girls decided to get the full Saba experience and stay ashore. We chose the Ecolodge Rendez-Vous, eco friendly cottage accommodations at the edge of the rainforest and along the hiking trail up Mount Scenery. Each cottage is theme decorated. We had Dolphin cottage. (see photo) A highlight of our visit was dinner at their Rainforest Restaurant, which is alone worth the hike. (You can also get close by taxi.)

The Saban’s appropriately call their island the Unspoiled Queen. Divers, hikers and nature lovers will be hard pressed to find a better place to explore. I was most charmed by the people and the Saban cottages. I can’t wait to go back.

Additional fun facts about Saba:

• She has less than 1,500 inhabitants.
• Climate is between 70 -85 degrees Fahrenheit all year.
• Saba has the worlds smallest commercial airport runway at only 400m (1300ft) and it immediately drops off into deep sea.

Check out more photos of Saba and other 2008 Caribbean digital memories in my Flickr.com account.

Sister Ship

As many of you know, Event Horizon (“Eve”), is number 22 of 24 Baltic 51's built between 1979 – 1988 by Baltic Yachts Ltd of Bosund, Pietarsaari, Finland.
So you can imagine our surprise and excitement when we saw our own reflection in Marigot Bay. It was our sister ship, Alexandra. She possesses an incredible likeness to Eve beyond the signature black mast and boom, which amazed us given their 25 plus years in age. We later learned she is hull #18, her home country is France and she makes the Atlantic Trade Winds Crossing most years to winter in the Caribbean.

Anguilla Day Trip

My visiting friend and I decided to explore the neighboring island of Anguilla. Instead of sailing over and dealing with the expense and time required to check in the boat, we took the easy 20 minute ferry ride from Marigot, St Martin to Anguilla’s Blowing Point ferry dock (on the south side). Upon arrival we were greeted by several eager-to-please taxi drivers willing to give island tours, offer suggestions based on what you want to do or just deliver you where you need to go. (The island does not offer a bus service.)

Anguilla is a flat 35 square mile island made of coral limestone and covered in thick scrub. It’s a British Overseas Territory (so they drive on the left) with a population of about 14,000. Anguilla takes pride in its quiet style and is known as a luxury destination, often for the jet set. You’ll find no duty free shopping or cruise ships here, which is nice change from St Martin. What lured us to this island are the 30 plus beaches, some the best in the Caribbean, and good snorkeling.

Our taxi driver persuaded us to go to Shoal Bay East Beach assuring us it would be more fun and less quiet than the beach we had requested. Of course this beach is on the far side of the island and a $20 taxi fare each way, but Shoal Bay East is rated the #1 Caribbean beach on many lists. It did not disappoint; sand so fine that it reminded us of cake mix, a string of beach bars & restaurants that also provide shelter from pouring rain, water sports concessions and snorkeling offshore. We rented snorkeling equipment ($10) but found the masks fit us poorly resulting in annoying leaks and fogging so next time I’d bring my own gear.

I found the Anguillans (I always ask “the locals” if they were born there) to be incredibly friendly and helpful, even in immigration. Another surprising observation I made was the amount of building on Anguilla, including its first mega yacht marina. Locals claim land development is slow so they can closely monitor the effects on the island, but to me there appears to be a building boom. Anguilla’s an ideal place for anyone seeking a relaxing retreat or for honeymooners thanks to the nice waterfront hotels bordering idyllic beaches, a great selection of restaurants and few other distractions.

Ferry rate $12 - 15 one way, plus $5 embarking fee each way. You can also fly to Anguilla’s Wallblake International Airport.

Ahhh The Water

My limited vocabulary does not allow me to properly express how much I love the Caribbean waters.

Today is an extra exciting day. My best traveling buddy and dear friend, Carey, arrives for a week. As if her presence isn't enough of a gift, she's arriving with supplies as well as birthday and Christmas presents - including a new camera intended to take photos easier for me to load on to Flickr.com and this blog. So stay tuned for more photo filled entries...

Grand Case, St Martin

We took the boat around the corner to Grand Case to bring in the New Year with our Tasmanian cruising friends. Grand Case is a small town known for its numerous restaurants, most along the beach rimmed waterfront. Since the start of 2008 we've been going back and forth from Grand Case Bay where the waters are calmer and clearer for swimming off the boat (my favorite part of being in the Caribbean) and Marigot Bay where we have dinghy access to the boat chandleries along Simpson Bay Lagoon on the Dutch side.

Marigot Bay, St Martin

We’ve already been in St Martin over a week yet it feels like only a couple of days. Above photo is of Marigot Bay. The gathering of spectacular (sometimes mega) motor and sailing yachts from around the globe is amazing.

Atlantic Trade Wind Crossing 2007

Internet access continues to be a time consuming struggle but I managed to finally upload a few photos from the Atlantic trade wind crossing. (I have them filed on flickr.com with the other transatlantic photos.) I also put a few photos taken in Madeira in my Portugal folder.

Madeira to Caribbean - Day 19 - Arrival

The day was covered in clouds, which we didn't mind because they provided heat relief from the sun, that were often filled with rain so it was a while before someone was able to shout "land ho". Then, as always, the remaining 20nm were the longest. We arrived in Marigot Bay at 1800 hours, 6-hours into our 19th day, as the sun was setting and just in time to drop anchor before dark. With Immigration closing, we opted to have dinner before we pumped up the dinghy to head for shore and request off-hour formalities. We celebrated our crossing with a glass of Portuguese vinho tinto and ate another pasta supper. Shortly after, my crew mates were snoring. In fairness to them, it was past their bedtime as they regularly went to bed at 8pm each night as I started by 4-hour night watch.

I would like to take this opportunity to thank Portugal (agricultural bounty), Barry's Irish Tea, chocolate and cookie/biscuit companies too numerous to mention, Marks & Spenser, Petzel (headlamps), Apple (iPod), and Olay (moisturizer & face wipes), who did not contribute product or money, but without their products my days at sea would have been looong and certainly less enjoyable. Oh yeah, and I should also thank Coca Cola for Diet Coke, which consumed in vast quantities kept my captain cooler and relatively sane during an "eternity of sailing downwind", according to him.

Logged 3068nm (rhumb line 2860nm) in 18-days and 10-hours. (Includes time zone changes.)

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Madeira to Caribbean - Day 18

Similar conditions to yesterday. We celebrated shipmate Joseph's birthday and watched the outstanding miles drop below 100. Day's run 187nm, an average of 7.8kts. We've started to see land-based birds. Expecting to make landfall in about 6 hours, hopefully before Customs & Immigration closes.

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Madeira to Caribbean - Day 17

For Christmas we got the gift of wind. We are traveling along a broken frontal boundary belonging to a stationary depression to our northeast. This system created small squalls that gave us 20-30kt winds through the night and noticeable waves. It's been a wild ride with the boat occasionally surfing at 10kts down the face of a wave. We logged 192nm over 25-hours - we had the last of our time zone changes, we're now -4 GMT, 1-hour ahead of EST. About 200nm to go so our ETA in Marigot, Saint Martin is Friday evening, Dec 27th.

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S/V Event Horizon Position Update

12/26/2007 @ 12:00 PM(UTC)
18°10.30'N 059°09.46'W
Course 291T Speed 8.3kts
Wind 087T @ 24kts

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S/V Event Horizon Position Update

12/26/2007 @ 12:00 AM(UTC)
17°47.44'N 057°31.55'W
Course 286T Speed 7.8kts
Wind 068T @ 17kts

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Madeira to Caribbean - Day 16

Because our day (each 24-hour period) starts at noon, today was both Christmas Eve and Christmas morning. It was festive considering we're offshore struggling to sail fast and the warm sunshine makes us forget it's December. Trying to keep us in the holiday spirit, I through an impromptu Christmas party. I served appetizers, a platter of sweets and popped a couple of corks. Just between you and me, I think they only came for the food and booze. I know for sure that the holiday cocktail napkins, Christmas music and festive decorations were wasted on them. But we still had fun. It was a beautiful afternoon, slow sailing but easy and comfortable due to following seas, and a magical night with perfect weather, a full moon and progress made in the right direction. The comfortable sea state also made for a good night's sleep. Christmas morning began with breakfast burritos and fresh squeezed orange juice on deck and later we retreated to the shade of down below and opened presents. Actually, they opened presents and I watched. After all, it's about the joy of giving. We logged 151nm and have about 400nm to go. If things hold steady, we've only 3 days / 2 nights more at sea.

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Madeira to Caribbean - Day 15

I should just cut and paste yesterday's blog...the lack of wind is maddening. The last quarter of our trip should have been the fastest, according to the computer models and their grib outputs, but instead we are logging shorter distances. Day's run was 131nm, a paltry 5.2kt average, the worst of this passage. In our delirium we are questioning if the trade winds even exist...could it be folklore? Actually, the trade winds have diminished due to a storm system to our north that is causing westerly airflow and therefore reducing the easterly trades. The cloud cover (4/8 to 8/8) that has followed us throughout most of the passage started to gradually diminish the other day making the sun's rays feel stronger. This is when I started fantasizing about ice cubes. We don't have a freezer and with the ocean temperature at 80°F / 27°C I doubted my usual trick would work, but it did. I managed to make ice by filling a plastic bag with water and placing it on the refrigerator cold plate while the generator was on running the refrigeration. I then placed the ice in sugar rimmed (plastic) glasses filled with fresh-squeezed lemonade for our afternoon snack. Now I fantasize about more ice cold lemonade...Based on our current excruciatingly slow pace we're still several days out from any of the islands but we live in hope. Fortunately we always provision for twice the intended length of passage so we'll go mad before we starve.

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Madeira to Caribbean - Day 14

Plagued with light wind from an unfavorable direction, which is increasing our distance and creating more of the painful main sail flogging. Trying to maximize the wind direction and minimize the flogging keeps us busy with sails and has forced us on a southerly course. Where are the trade winds?!? We resorted to using the engine for 3 hours during a period of almost no wind. Where are the dolphins? We remain disappointed and surprised by the lack of sea life sightings. (Only one pod of dolphins, a few flying fish and a couple of sea birds in 14 days.) Our four daily meals - breakfast, lunch, mid afternoon snack and dinner - continue to be the highlights of our day. Sad really, especially now that most of our food is coming from a can. In the evenings we're all getting involved in the celestial navigation and having fun playing with a gadget called a Sky Scout (great family gift) from a company called Celestron. Logged 160nm, a 6.7kt average.

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Madeira to Caribbean - Day 13

Our new day started with furling the 100% jib and hoisting the cruising chute, which is still flying and managing well in winds ranging from 10 to 25kts. We're back on our regular watch system and the near full moon lights up the deck at night so life is easier. My captain noticed another reoccurring crack on the other side of the gooseneck. He attempted an offshore fix by making a spacer for the boom/gooseneck hinge. We took down the sails and with the skill of two engineers managed to insert it. Not an easy task in a rolling sea, but all (30) fingers are accounted for and so far the temporary fix is working. Despite hanging out in the open ocean for our repair job we logged 184nm, a 7.6kt average.

The seas were calmer this morning so I perused my cookbook and then spent time playing with the convection oven while the generator was on. (I can't believe I waited 5 years to learn how to use this magical oven!) I made stuffed red peppers for lunch and banana bread for tomorrow's breakfast. Due to my limited stores and selfish preferences, I created an original banana bread recipe and since it turned out so tasty (we sampled it warm) I'm including it.

- Banana Oat Bread -
1/4 cup (4 tablespoons) butter
1/3 cup canola oil
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
3-4 ripe bananas (depending on size), mashed
2 cups flour
1 cup rolled oats
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon soda
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Cream butter, oil and sugar together. Add eggs and beat well. Mix in bananas, flour, oats, cinnamon, soda and vanilla. Grease and flour 1 large or 2 small loaf pans. Pour dough into pan. Bake for 1 hour or until brown at 300°F (150°C) - or 30 minutes on convection low mix.

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S/V Event Horizon Position Update

12/22/2007 @ 12:00 PM(UTC)
18°47.95'N 049°34.06'W
Course 239T Speed 8.0kts
Wind 086T @ 17kts

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Madeira to Caribbean - Day 12

Today was the first day we found the need to seek out shade while on deck. Shifting wind directions required frequent jibes making it a busy day on deck. Everyone appears to be better rested and certainly perkier after getting to take showers now that the sea state is less cantankerous. Logged 197nm over a 25-hour day (another time change), an average of 7.8kts. Finally broke the 4-digit distance barrier - now we've only 900nm to go! ETA in St Martin is Dec 27th.

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S/V Event Horizon Position Update

12/21/2007 @ 12:00 AM(UTC)
20°09.96'N 045°22.82'W
Course 223T Speed 7.7kts
Wind 069T @ 20kts

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Madeira to Caribbean - Day 11

We're tired. The continuing uncomfortable boat motion and lack of sleep has taken a toll on all of us. One of us remains in recovery mode (it's typically at least a 48-hour recovery period) so the other two of us are covering the formal watches. When not tending to sails or on watch, one tries their best to get some sleep but it's easier said then done. As if we weren't feeing cranky enough, the day is ending with a bad discovery. My captain has just discovered a new crack in the gooseneck caused by the excessive flogging of the sails and boom. It's the same situation we had after our light-wind July Atlantic Crossing but the gooseneck has since been hand-delivered to Newport, RI and supposedly "super" repaired. We'll keep a close eye on the crack and try to contain it until it can be repaired, hopefully upon our return to New England in the spring. (The gooseneck holds the boom to the mast.) Day's run 186nm, an average of 7.75kts. Approximately 1060nm - maybe 7 days? - yet to go.

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Madeira to Caribbean - Day 10

The day started with excitement caused by a fish to reel in - another of the same unknown variety. The Boga Grip that's been taking up space and adding weight has finally come in handy. Spirits dampened as light winds necessitated taking down the sails. We opted to use the engine to help steady the boat from swells, charged the house batteries (verses using the generator) and went in search of wind. Two hours later we found some good wind and were back in business. While the 3m / 9ft waves are allowing the boat to surf and increase our speed, their short intervals and confused state have created an uncomfortable boat motion. The different motion has gotten the better of our visiting crew who's since taken up full-time residency in the center cockpit. He's on the mend though thanks to his determination and the patch behind his ear. Day's run was 178nm, an average of 7.4kts. We now have 1700nm behind us and another 1200nm to go. We're hopeful the back end of the trip will be faster with a few 200nm/days.

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S/V Event Horizon Position Update

12/19/2007 @ 12:00 PM(UTC)
20°56.20'N 040°54.10'W
Course 275T Speed 8.8kts
Wind 058T @ 23kts

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Madeira to Caribbean - Day 9

The wind trends were more consistent for a couple of days so we figured the wind was here to stay and that we'd experienced the last of the painful sail flogging but we were wrong. So very wrong. Hard work and a long night to log 168nm, a 7kt average. No sightings.

With the birthday over, it was time to decorate for Christmas. I hung my 4-inch wreath on the hatch and a handful of decorations in the salon - all saved from a care-package delivered to me while afloat in stormy Bermuda 2 years ago. Then I placed wrapped presents for the guys and giant pine cones from Portugal on the bookshelf, each carefully wedged in place in hopes of it not becoming a projectile. Now I'm ready for Santa.

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S/V Event Horizon Position Update

12/19/2007 @ 12:00 AM(UTC)
20°53.87'N 039°09.02'W
Course 271T Speed 8.8kts
Wind 047T @ 23kts

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S/V Event Horizon Position Update

12/18/2007 @ 12:00 AM(UTC)
20°55.25'N 036°17.28'W
Course 255T Speed 8.6kts
Wind 040T @ 18kts

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Madeira to Caribbean - Day 8

The day we caught a fish! Actually, Joseph caught the fish. My captain and I stood by watching the small tuna jumping out of the water as Joseph reeled it in, but then it got away. Hours later there was another catch and this one didn't get away. We've no idea what kind of fish it was, but it was delicious. It was beautiful too - as if it was gold-leafed - with a narrow body about 2 feet in length and a blue Mohawk-like fin that ran from its head to its pronounced forked tail. We took a photo in hopes of identifying it someday. Any guesses? As if this wasn't enough excitement for one day, we also had two quick spinnaker take downs due to approaching squalls. The second take down was in the dark just before night watches so we opted to sail wind on wing with the 100% jib through the night. A good move, which avoided what would have been another rush take down when hard rain arrived just before first light. Overall wind is more consistent but we've not yet reached the trades. Day's run was 171nm over a 25-hour period (we had another time change) making our average 6.8kts. We finally saw a sailing vessel off in the distance and another sea bird. Surprised we aren't seeing more.

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S/V Event Horizon Position Update

12/17/2007 @ 12:00 PM(UTC)
21°17.27'N 034°42.36'W
Course 266T Speed 7.6kts
Wind 062T @ 15kts

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S/V Event Horizon Position Update

12/16/2007 @ 12:00 PM(UTC)
21°52.47'N 031°59.67'W
Course 243T Speed 6.8kts
Wind 037T @ 13kts

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Madiera to Caribbean - Day 7

We've been at sea for a week now with 1,115nm behind us and about 1,760nm still to go. The nights have gradually gotten warmer and last night was very comfortable. We're starting to see flying fish and a sea bird circled us this morning, but still no ship sightings. In summary of week 1, I'm sharing commentary from my captain, "Wind a little more consistent - 15kts NE - hopefully the bulk of the light stuff is behind us. We are sailing with wind angles of 155/165 true, about 145/155 apparent, which appears to be the sweet spot for these conditions. As day 7 comes to a close we have now been flying a spinnaker for 5 days. The spinnaker pole is about 12 feet off the deck for these deep wind angles, keeping it high and forward away from the main. When the fully battened main inverts due to a combination of the swells and back-draft from the spinnaker, the entire boat shakes and the crew starts to show signs of being sleep deprived. Logged miles are finally starting to trend in the right direction 173nm, 170nm, 154nm, 146nm, 137nm, 173nm and 162nm. Overall the numbers are a little below expectation. The boat has never been drier now with the centerboard fixed and tightened keel-bolts. Fuel consumption is approx 2.5g/day - all generator usage for house batteries, water and refrigeration."

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Madeira to Caribbean - Day 6

Another beautiful day in the Atlantic Ocean and our third straight flying the cruising chute. We can't imagine making this trip without spinnakers! We had more wind enabling us to log 173nm and average 7.2kts, which is getting closer to Eve's overall average. At some point Joseph got a nibble on his fishing line because something chomped off half the lure. (Maybe a good thing this one got away?) So as you can tell, things afloat are looking up. Plus we've adjusted to the motions of the sea and our night schedules so we're doing more than just sailing, eating and sleeping. The guys have been practising celestial navigation and I've been working on a web project.
For the second year in a row I celebrated my birthday at sea. (Turned 39, again.) For my birthday I got a shower, a shorter night watch and we each got to enjoy a cold beer with our Tex-Mex inspired lunch. However, the best part of the day was the nice unexpected emails I received from friends even though they knew I was at sea and probably wouldn't see emails for days. My captain has recently started using SSB (single side band radio) to download shadow mail from our gmail accounts. (Shadow mail shows us who has sent an email and the subject line.) Each day I get to select a few for retrieval and then sometime during the night my captain performs magic with the SSB and I get the full email text to read. So, if anyone wants to send me a quick message you can email me and place a short message in the subject line or enough info to know I should try to retrieve it when the air waves allow. Heads up though, for now this is only working in one direction so I won't be able to respond.

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S/V Event Horizon Position Update

12/15/2007 @ 12:00 PM(UTC)
23°10.60'N 029°16.34'W
Course 241T Speed 8.1kts
Wind 037T @ 16kts

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S/V Event Horizon Position Update

12/15/2007 @ 12:00 AM(UTC)
24°00.05'N 027°50.11'W
Course 230T Speed 7.8kts
Wind 026T @ 16kts

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Madeira to Caribbean - Day 5

Another 24 hours with the cruising chute working hard and a couple of jibes to keep us on course. We had hoped to hang a right soon to take more of a rhumbline course but there is little wind to our west. So we continue south where there is more wind and eventually should hit the sought after trade winds to take us west. The light winds have caused bouts of flogging that today resulted in a broken top batten on the main sail. Fortunately we brought a spare. Overall a comfortable day but our slowest so far with only 137nm logged. Still no sighting of wildlife or vessels. Joseph is now managing a fishing operation off the stern, determined to catch us dinner before we reach land. (Attempts to fish off Eve over the past five years have yielded zilch. Not even a nibble.)

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S/V Event Horizon Position Update

12/14/2007 @ 12:00 AM(UTC)
25°41.45'N 026°06.12'W
Course 243T Speed 7.2kts
Wind 041T @ 14kts

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Madeira to Caribbean - Day 4

Hard to believe it's only day 4. Feels like more, although each individual day does seem to pass quickly. This day started with decreasing wind and the hoisting of our cruising spinnaker, which 24hrs later is still flying. The day's extra curricular activity was manually winching my captain up the mast (while under sail) to replace the steaming light bulb. He managed to take some interesting bird's-eye photos that I'll share once we reach land and internet access. It was a perfect sunny day, warm but not hot, and the wind never completely died as we feared. The nights have been especially dark due to clouds and no or little moon but this night was clear and spectacular with an amazing amount of falling stars. No traffic or wildlife sightings. Day's run 146nm, average speed 6kts.

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S/V Event Horizon Position Update

12/13/2007 @ 12:00 PM(UTC)
26°20.46'N 025°01.79'W
Course 234T Speed 6.1kts
Wind 029T @ 10kts

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Madeira to Caribbean - Day 3

Flew the all-purpose spinnaker most of the day. We stayed "suited up" while off watch throughout the night just in case there was cause for an emergency takedown. Night was noisy with flogging main and additionally uncomfortable sleeping in gear and with one foot on the floor, ready to spring into action. Wind increased too much for this spinnaker by 0630 which is when we all took part in a flawless mailbox drop takedown. Sailed wing on wing until around noon as day 3 came to a close. Day's run was only 154nm but we're happy with our 6.4kt average and progress made given the wind strengths we had to work with. No visitors. Few ship sightings.

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S/V Event Horizon Position Update

12/12/2007 @ 12:00 PM(UTC)
28°20.90'N 024°07.27'W
Course 231T Speed 6.7kts
Wind 089T @ 14kts

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Madeira to Caribbean - Day 2

Calmer seas made for an easier night. Finally had a pod of dolphins visit us this morning. Otherwise only sightings have been 3 ships, always in the distance. Wind has begun to lighten (10kts), as forecasted, so my captain got that spinnaker feeling. We're flying the all-purpose chute. Day's run 170nm. Only about 2,500nm yet to go...at the current (slow) rate, another 18 days.

I'm proudly getting handy with the intimating convection microwave oven. Yesterday baked chocolate chip muffins for mid-afternoon snack and today a lemon loaf. Thankfully we did manage to get a cooking gas refill in Madeira. But now the sport of baking and broiling with this multi-functional appliance (while the generator is on) has me hooked.

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S/V Event Horizon Position Update

12/11/2007 @ 12:00 AM(UTC)
30°31.09'N 020°43.13'W
Course 243T Speed 6.7kts
Wind 120T @ 11kts

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Madeira to Caribbean - Day 1

Our 3-person crew pushed off the dock at Quinta do Lorde Marina around noon. We left in the lee of Madeira so the wind was light for several hours but by evening the winds increased enough to enable us to maintain an average of 7.5kts and log 180nm for the first 24-hrs. Rolling seas caused our fully battened main to flog and the boat to pitch which made for a noisy and bouncy night but our short watch system helped keep spirits high. We continue to be on a run with the wind at 150° true. Mostly cloudy skies with a few showers. Only one ship sighted near Madeira suggests we are off the beaten path. Increasing sea temperatures - 20°C/68°F - so we must be headed in the right direction.

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S/V Event Horizon Position Update

12/10/2007 @ 12:00 PM(UTC)
31°12.07'N 019°16.34'W
Course 259T Speed 6.8kts
Wind 104T @ 19kts

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S/V Event Horizon Position Update

12/10/2007 @ 12:00 AM(UTC)
31°54.47'N 017°52.27'W
Course 227T Speed 5.6kts
Wind 082T @ 14kts

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Farewell Madeira

Only hours away from setting sail on our non-stop 2,800nm (hopefully) passage to St Martin. Joseph Burke, who sailed with us before has just arrived to accompany us. Now if Mother Nature is kind enough to allow for one-person watches, we’ll each have only one 4-hour watch and get to sleep more at night. It will be our longest trip to date, about 3 weeks, and our first Christmas at sea. (Probably canned ham for Christmas dinner.) As usual, you can follow our passage through Shiptrak (http://shiptrak.org/?callsign=WDB4885) or this blog.

Madeira

Upon arrival we knew we should have allowed more time to explore the unique island of Madeira. The island is comprised of steep once volcanic peaks that rise sharply out of the sea. There are no sandy beaches, only dramatic mountainsides or cliffs created through erosion. One side of Madeira is lush while the other is more arid as shown in my photos. Quinta do Lorde Marina is at the end of the arid side. The island is laced with man-made terraces that allow for farming (and hinder erosion), and tunnels through the mountains.

Porto Santo

Porto Santo is a small (11km by 6km) island of volcanic origin surrounded by gold sandy beaches and turquoise water (one is immediately reminded of the Caribbean). Large palm trees and colorful hibiscus and bougainvillea flowers decorate her interior which has only about 5,000 inhabitants and one town, Vila Baleira, where Christopher Columbus lived for many years. The town feels wonderfully Portuguese – old world charm yet modern – and offers most important amenities including several pastelarias and a bench filled square with free WiFi, which is where my captain has spent most of his time. The town is a 15 minute walk along a beach rimmed shore line from the marina. The marina offers basic necessities but overall it pales, especially the dock, compared to the last three marinas we’ve visited. We are the only sailboat in the harbor, another sign that we are late to head south.

Next stop is the larger island and namesake of the archipelago, Madeira.

Southwest to Madeira - Day 3

Today I ran out of cooking gas just as I finished cooking lunch. Normally I would switch over to my other tank but my captain refuses to let me touch it until we are underway to the Caribbean. Filling an American propane tank (with propane or butane) has been near impossible in Europe. We discovered this inconvenience upon our arrival to Ireland so I've tried to use the gas sparingly, which hasn't been easy with the cool temperatures and my daily afternoon tea ritual. But then I'll admit it's been sweet having a legitimate excuse to eat out a lot. Anyway, now I'm being forced to use our microwave convection oven that for the past 5+ years has merely been a galley decoration. Now each meal begins with me reading the operations manual... The water temperatures continue to rise. A sign to me that we're headed in the right direction - to warmer weather! The water is changing color too, more blue.
It's been a fun 3-day passage to Madeira in part because we've sailed what has been a popular explorer and trade route for hundreds of years. We also over took a square rigger (think Pirate's of the Caribbean) on a reach. We arrived in Porto Santo, the most northeastern of the Madeira islands before noon today.

S/V Event Horizon Position Update

12/2/2007 @ 12:00 AM(UTC)
33°35.46'N 015°06.75'W
Course 247T Speed 6.6kts
Wind 038T @ 15kts

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Southwest to Madeira - Day 2

Uneventful day with shifting light wind that kept us busy tending sails. Only logged a modest 139nm despite our labors. Night was sightly warmer but I still found my ski hat comforting. Continued to see lots of ship traffic, which we find ourselves growing more accustomed to. We're more than half way to Madeira.

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