Trepassey, NF

Thursday we made our way to Trepassey, which is a sheltered harbour on the southern tip of the Avalon Peninsula (about two hours drive south of St John's). This way, once we get the weather go-ahead to depart for Ireland, we can get through the remaining section of the ice field during daylight hours. In route we had great humpback whale sightings and a seal greeted us upon approach to the harbour. The only downside to the trip was that we again experienced lighter winds than forecasted so we used the engine, thinking we could top up the diesel tanks in Trepassey. (We only hold 100 gallons so every gallon counts and we will be in conservative mode once we set off for "the big passage.") However, since the fish plant closed in the 90's, the town has been diminishing and its amenities with it - no diesel pumps and the diesel truck only comes once a week to directly fill equipment and trawlers and we'd just missed it. Now the closest diesel was over an hour by taxi or a few hours away by boat. After a walk around Trepassey to learn there was no reason to stay, we set sail for St Mary's in search of diesel - and if we're really lucky, maybe a pub too.

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S/V Event Horizon Position Update

6/30/2007 @ 12:00 PM(UTC)
46°55.11'N 053°34.44'W
Course 143T Speed 0.1kts
Wind 258T @ 5kts

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S/V Event Horizon Position Update

6/29/2007 @ 12:02 PM(UTC)
46°44.56'N 053°22.89'W
Course 163T Speed 0.1kts
Wind 101T @ 8kts

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St John's, Newfoundland

What a gem this city is! St. John's is said to be the oldest English city in North America, and home to the oldest street, Water Street. Today it is a bustling city with a highly educated work force, hip shops, ethnic restaurants and an incredible music scene. Plus, St. John's has the most bars per capita and George Street (downtown St. John's) has the most bars per square foot in North America – and no, this is not why we came here.

Speaking of bars reminds me to tell you about our approach to St John’s Harbour… it was like being in a giant cocktail glass as there were large ice-cube-like pieces of bergs floating all around us – bits that had broken off bergs still slamming against the nearby rocky shoreline. The narrow entrance is well marked and upon entry you can’t help but know early explorers must have been ecstatic to find this beautifully sheltered harbour.

Event Horizon is tied to a small public dock (about $40 for up to a 5 day stay, and thereafter $6/day) and only a short stroll from the downtown excitement. Our plan is to leave tomorrow taking advantage of the wind direction to work our way back south along the Newfoundland coast as we try to get south of the concentrated iceberg areas. Plus we’re waiting for a more defined 5-day weather forecast before we head offshore. At the moment weather uncertainties are giving us cause to reconsider our departure.

My internet connectivity has been too slow to post photos, but will share some eventually. Now I'm off to enjoy a good ethnic dinner before we set sail and are forced to eat my culinary concoctions.

Fun fact: Newfoundland has a unique North American time zone – half an hour later than Atlantic Time. (1 ½ hrs ahead of Boston)

S/V Event Horizon Position Update

6/25/2007 @ 6:00 PM(UTC)
47°14.02'N 052°42.80'W
Course 019T Speed 7.5kts
Wind 183T @ 22kts

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Newfoundland - Day 7

Last evening we enjoyed the company of a pod of dolphins that swam around the boat and played in our bow wake for a while. This morning we arrived in Newfoundland waters and soon after saw our first iceberg! We're not sure if it's a good thing or a bad thing, but it was too far away (and too low to the water) for a photo op. Most common March through July, these icebergs are pieces from Greenland's glaciers that have been carried south by the wind and currents.
We've nearly finished working our way up the east coast to St John's, the capital of Newfoundland. We hope to stay on the town dock in St John's Harbour through Wednesday while we meet up with our new crew, provision and wait for a low-pressure system (rain & fog) to pass. Just spotted another berg...

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S/V Event Horizon Position Update

6/25/2007 @ 12:00 PM(UTC)
46°35.91'N 053°06.49'W
Course 054T Speed 8.5kts
Wind 185T @ 19kts

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S/V Event Horizon Position Update

6/25/2007 @ 6:00 AM(UTC)
46°20.98'N 054°08.82'W
Course 076T Speed 7.6kts
Wind 195T @ 16kts

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S/V Event Horizon Position Update

6/25/2007 @ 12:00 AM(UTC)
46°09.09'N 055°12.92'W
Course 077T Speed 7.8kts
Wind 198T @ 18kts

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S/V Event Horizon Position Update

6/24/2007 @ 6:00 PM(UTC)
45°57.09'N 056°22.77'W
Course 076T Speed 8.8kts
Wind 196T @ 23kts

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Newfoundland Bound Day 6

As forecasted, wind has been averaging over 20kts so we've made great progress, about 200nm in the past 24 hrs - nearly double this trips prior daily mileage. We haven't seen the sun in two days but at 0400 we escaped the fog. You know it's cold because we're starting to see puffins. Our next waypoint (142nm yet to go) is Cape Race off the southeast tip of Newfoundland. Hope to arrive there tomorrow morning at which point,according to the latest Canadian Ice Service reports, we will have entered the ever changing ice fields and will be on sharp look-out for icebergs.

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S/V Event Horizon Position Update

6/24/2007 @ 12:00 PM(UTC)
45°44.11'N 057°32.28'W
Course 076T Speed 8.8kts
Wind 211T @ 22kts

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S/V Event Horizon Position Update

6/24/2007 @ 8:01 AM(UTC)
45°34.79'N 058°19.80'W
Course 074T Speed 8.1kts
Wind 199T @ 17kts

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Canso Bank Update

We have been surrounded by fog all day, although visibility slightly improved for a few hours this afternoon. Wind has gradually increased to 13kts from the SW so we're sailing on a comfortable broad reach with an average speed over 7kts. Wind is forecasted to be 15-20kts by 9pm tonight so we're looking forward to finally increasing our daily mileage. We've just left Nova Scotia behind and over the course of the night will pass Cape Breton to port. As dusk nears the fog grows heavier and the air is already thick with mist.

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Halifax towards Canso Bank - Day 5

After a long fantastic lunch (fish & chips made with fresh local haddock) at the RNSYS, we sadly said good-bye to our other crew member who was forced to choose his job over sailing. (We don't pay well.) Soon after, my captain and I departed Halifax with good wind (15kts) that gradually diminished by nightfall and was replaced with thick fog. Between the fog and active commercial ship traffic, watches have been spent carefully monitoring the radar. On the upside, this means getting to spend most of each 4-hr watch period down below at the chart table (location of the radar screen) with the comforts of a padded seat and heat. Thick fog remains but by dawn the wind increased (7kts) allowing us to sail again.

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Shelburne to Halifax - Day 4

Nice day of offshore sailing (and reading!) but the winds continue to be light (7 -14kts) making progress slow. ETA for St John’s is now early next week so in lieu of kidnapping Joseph, our valuable crew member, we arrived in Halifax at 0330hrs to deliver him to the nearest airport. We all got a few hours of sleep and had our first shower in 4.5 days. (It’s not as gross as it sounds because we certainly have not been sweating. We could have showered in Shelburne but deemed refueling, food and sleep more important.) Upon exiting the showers this morning we found the harbour newly engulf in thick fog so we’ll begin Day 5 hanging out at the Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadron waiting for the coastal fog to clear. Forecast is calling for continued light winds for another two days…

 

Shelburne, N.S. - Day 3

We opted to make our first landfall in Shelburne, Nova Scotia to clear customs and refuel. It was a wise call and the experience as positive as when we were here in 2003. We arrived at 1700hrs EST, which turned out to be 1800hrs local time as we are now in the Atlantic time-zone. Due to our time error we feared we'd be confined to the boat all evening but fortunately were able to clear customs by phone. The Shelburne Harbour Yacht Club & Marina gave us the fuel dock for the night (dockage here is only $31.50/day up to 50 feet, plus .50 for each additional foot), catered to our fuel needs despite the pumps being closed for the day, provided us with free wifi, and served up tasty fresh haddock for dinner. As if life wasn't already sweet, we got to sleep in our cozy bunks for 7 continuous blissful hours while rain fell outside. The captain had us up shortly after dawn (5 AST) as the rain stopped and already the sun is starting to shine as we reenter the Atlantic Ocean to begin day 4.

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Shelburne, Nova Scotia

Georges Basin to Roseway Basin - Day 2

We had to use the engine most of day 2 so it was an easy lounging day for us sailors. Clear skies continued but the air is much colder. Night watches were very cold. I tried to hold off, knowing we still have another 700nm north yet to go before we reach St John's, but gave in by my second watch, 4am to 8am, and put on my heaviest foul weather gear and ski hat. Early this morning we were happy to be sailing again. By dawn, which starts around 4am EST, we could pick up the Racon beacon on approach to Nova Scotia. Shortly after dawn two pilot whales surfaced within throwing distance of the boat. Other sea life sightings include a lone seal far at sea and a shark.

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Newport to Georges Basin - Day 1

140nm. Light winds kept us from making our daily mileage goal (165nm or more) but it has been an enjoyable and easy first 24-hours. Plus, thankfully, no fog. Winds lightened further during the night forcing us to engine. The light winds are the result of a high-pressure ridge over the Gulf of Maine, which we have decided to engine through. Due to estimated fuel consumption, we will probably need to make landfall in Nova Scotia. No interesting wildlife sightings to report.

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North Atlantic Bound

In a few hours my Captain and I (along with one other person) will toss the dock lines for another sailing adventure. This time we are going for a big goal that has been many years in the making. We’re headed back to Canada, but weather permitting, plan to continue on to Ireland. That’s right. We’re headed across “the pond”. Yes, our first Atlantic crossing.

 

If you’re surprised by this news you’re not alone. Very few have had a hint – mostly potential crew – of our possible departure. Heck even we’re surprised. But for the first time, despite several attempts, everything seems right for making the passage now.

 

We expect to sail into Halifax, Nova Scotia or St John, Newfoundland (4-6 days) where we will refuel, provision and change crew for the longer passage to Ireland (10-14 days).

 

As usual, you can follow our whereabouts through Shiptrak at http://shiptrak.org/?callsign=WDB4885. Plus, this time I will try to post blogs via single sideband radio along the way.

 

Remedies

The best medicine so far is definitely time with friends - seeing friends in person to catch up on the little things that escaped the past several months of internet communications. I’m also finding that walking helps - walking everywhere as if exploring a new landfall for the first time. It reminds me why so many people visit these special areas and why I’ve been happy to call them home for so many years. Going to a winning Red Sox game at Fenway Park is another dose of good medicine.

Getting Back into the Groove

Returning to my old stomping grounds, mostly Boston and Newport, has felt odd. Yes, it’s great to be back to places and people that I love, but this time my return feels different and the transition has been less smooth. I guess my captain was right, I adopted the island ways quickly and too comfortably. I feel as if I’ve been away for years, not 7 short months. It’s not so much the things around me have changed, it’s more my lack of ability to cope with basic things that were never an issue before. If such a thing exists, I believe my societal immune system has broken down. Most days I am overwhelmed by even small crowds, common noise and too many choices for everything. Is there a remedy?

Return to US Shores, June ‘07

My return to US shores has granted me the first of many things since I departed about 7 months ago. It started with my first land shower. Really. At first I thought the marina installed a new shower head but then realized it was just that I had become accustomed to boat showers. Not a hardship by any means, but without realizing it, I’d adjusted to not getting that massage-like pressure you get with a good American land shower. Anyway, my first land shower was wonderful, but I did feel a bit guilty about using so much water.

Other firsts in over 7 months included sleeping on land, driving a car, going to a movie theater and wearing real shoes (not my beloved Crocs, flip flops or sailing shoes) which surprised me with a free blister collection.