USVI

Technically my captain and I returned to the US this weekend when we entered the US Virgin Islands. At the request of every sailor we know, we checked in with customs and immigration in Cruz Bay, St John before continuing west to St Thomas where we have been checking out marinas for future reference. The first couple of nights we anchored in Honeymoon Bay, which is on the west side of Water Island near Charlotte Amalie, where to our delight fellow RI cruisers on Queen of Hearts were also enjoying the beautiful palm tree lined cove.

Full Moon

On January 3rd I attended my first full moon party at Bomba Shack. This well known surfside shack is located on the white sand shores of Capoons Bay on the north shore of Tortola. It was a unique outing (ladies panties and bras dangle from the roof, and signs offer free T-shirts if you get naked) but the overall experience seemed over hyped. Perhaps things would have been different had I drank their famous mushroom tea, but then hallucinating is not my idea of fun. Instead I opted for the tasty Bomba rum punch. At least I was among entertaining company, the band was good and we got to hang out with Naz who was on holiday and celebrating the success of his latest CD Hip Hop is Dead.

Days Of Our Lives In BVI

Our intended one night stay in Sopers Hole quickly turned into six days of fun thanks to several new friends. There were beachside gatherings (always in front of Patricia, who offers some of the best blender drinks and jerk chicken we have ever experienced), evenings at the Jolly Roger and boat invites.

We hoped the fun would continue as we tidied the boat in preparation for our first guests, three friends flying in from Boston.

Our friends arrived via Jet Blue to San Juan, Puerto Rico, Cape Air to St Thomas, USVI and then ferry to West End, Tortola. The days flew as we back tracked to our favorite BVI locals, as now my captain and I were also on vacation and ready to play. We started at Smugglers Cove, then sailed to Virgin Gorda for a night ashore in Spanish Town were we visited one of our favorite night spots, The Rock Cafe, followed by a day at The Baths. Then we sailed north to Gorda Sound where we snorkeled more, frequented Saba Rock, hiked to Biras Creek and welcomed in the New Year at the Bitter End Yacht Club. We ended our holiday with a race, sailing friends with a 51ft Hinkley and a 62ft Little Harbor, back to Sopers Hole in West End, Tortola.

Christmas Day 2006

I hung stockings and a small wreath, had presents for my captain and opened special edible treats for the occasion but it still did not feel like Christmas. With the sun shining and no plans, we packed our snorkeling gear and hiked back to Smugglers Cove. As before we were greeted with clean soft sand and two beach bars. The crystal clear water beckons even non-swimmers and there is a reef on each far side to entertain any snorkeler. I also enjoy watching the Pelicans dive-bomb for fish often alongside snorkelers. It may not have felt like Christmas but it felt good.

Fun fact. Smugglers Cove was the location for the 1990 movie re-make, adapted from a novel by Ernest Hemingway, The Old Man and the Sea starring Anthony Quinn.

West End, Tortola

With a long Christmas weekend approaching, we decided to explore the BVI further and departed Virgin Gorda. Friday evening we anchored in Great Harbour off Peter Island for a quiet night. The next day we sailed to the West End of Tortola where we settled into Sopers Hole, a picturesque harbour with great amenities. We had spent little time ashore since Bermuda so the first action item was to go for a hike. We found a dirt road and pondered, is it a driveway or a road? We took a chance and started to climb the steep hill. The hot sunshine made us question our route but we continued on. After what seemed like a long distance we rounded the hill to find welcomed shade in our path. We trekked on and were rewarded with a view of Jost Van Dyke Island to our left. Parched beyond belief we encountered a fellow walker who assured us that there was a beach ahead with liquid refreshments, so we carried on. As we headed down the other side of the mountain, now on the north side of Tortola, we caught a breath taking view of a beach in the distance. Our pace increased. Hot, muddy and fearing hallucination from thirst we found paradise. Smugglers Cove. We had stumbled upon what many claim is the best beach in BVI.

Walking backwards in awe of the view, we approached a beach bar for fruit smoothies. It would turn out to be one of many tasty concoctions created for us from a blender connected to a car battery for power. As surprising as our surroundings we also met fellow sailors huddled around the make-shift bar, who for some reason or another had also found there way to Patricias Beach Bar on this hot Christmas Eve afternoon.

The Office

After locating the proper cable and Norseman fittings in Road Town, Tortola and several days of planning the underwater operation, the event horizon dive team successfully replaced the centerboard cable without any problems. (I am still in awe of my captains ingenuity.) So we are back to business as usual. Speaking of which, the view from our office has been changing daily as we continue to search for a reliable internet connection.

18 30 N, 64 30 W

After a good night sleep, I spent most of the next day in the water, just outside of Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour. It started out as a reconnaissance mission for the injured centerboard but turned into a day of underwater exploration. I saw an amazing array of sea life around and under the boat including several sea turtles, a sting ray, a barracuda, and endless schools of beautiful fish I have yet to identify. (Must buy a reference book!) It has felt good to stretch the muscles, and I do believe the water is calling me again.

Bermuda to BVI 2006

Upon nearing landfall in the early morning hours of Friday, Dec 15th, a tall gray mass began to appear on the horizon. Eventually a volcano mountain took shape and kept me entranced for miles. We reached the British Virgin Islands in less than 5 days thanks to steady 20-30 knot northeast winds that allowed us to sail 955nm on a one-tack beam reach. As recommended by many sailors, we cleared customs and immigration in Spanish Town on Virgin Gorda where all important services and amenities surround the harbour area.

I am happy to report it was a relatively bruise-free passage. I also thought we avoided any breakage but on the last day we realized the centerboard was down because its cable had broke. So despite our beautiful surroundings we (especially my captain!) are preoccupied with acquiring the necessary parts to fix the problem. Meanwhile we now have about a 14 foot draft, which is too much for most of the harbours so we need to anchor outside in less sheltered areas, which also means longer dinghy rides to shore and limited internet options. But the main thing is that we have finally arrived safely to the Caribbean where it is warm, beautiful and there are endless areas to explore.

Geography lesson. The Virgin Islands are an archipelago comprised of several small islands and cays that are considered two groups of islands, the United States Virgin Islands (USVI) and the British Virgin Islands (BVI). The USVI consist of 3 larger islands (St Thomas, St John and St Croix) and over 50 smaller islets and cays. The total area of the USVI is 133 square miles. The BVI (which lie to the north east of the USVI) are made up of 4 larger islands (Tortola, Virgin Gorda, Jost van Dyke and Anegada) and 32 smaller islands. The total area of the BVI is 59 square miles.

Caribbean Bound

Finally, we are off to the Caribbean! We are leaving early tomorrow morning on the back of a cold front that has just passed over Bermuda, providing good NE winds to take my captain and me south to the British Virgin Islands . We expect the 830nm passage to Virgin Gorda to take about 6 days. During this trip I will celebrate my first birthday at sea, turning 39 years young for the sixth time (you do the math). I was hoping to be on land for the occasion so that I could have a cocktail in hand (we never consume alcohol while at sea) but that is not to be. Instead I will look forward to celebrating two things in Spanish Town, my birthday and a safe passage.

Southbound

Our stay in Bermuda has been longer than intended (over a month!) but rewarding thanks to our Bermudian friends.

The once steady flow of boats stopping here for respite, fuel or repairs has slowed to a trickle. St Georges Harbour, recently dotted with lingering boats awaiting parts and repairs, has nearly emptied. Both are signs that the traditional southbound passage for a Caribbean winter is closing. It is time for us to depart.

So, we are in squirrel mode again, provisioning, storing and stowing in preparation for the next good weather window for passage to Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda, which is part of the British Virgin Islands.

Wickford, RI to Bermuda 2006

It is hard to believe we have already been in Bermuda 12 days. Long enough for the trips bruises and unpleasantries to fade. Our passage was 720 nautical miles from dock to dock and completed in less than 4 days. It was a very fast trip thanks to steady southwest winds and our determination to out run an approaching storm towards the end of our trip. Most of the voyage was made under a double or triple reefed mainsail and storm staysail creating an average speed of 8 knots.

It was also a wet trip where the occasional wave caused the inflation of a lifejacket as shown in the photo.

With each trip lessons are learned and improvements are identified. The fast passing days in Bermuda have been spent applying our new learning by making assorted repairs and alterations, cleaning and organizing everything from lockers to ourselves. (Luckily our damages were minimal compared to most boats passing through this season.) And when not doing this fun stuff, my captain is steadfast with his engineering work and I am gradually getting back to my web clients and a normal day to day routine.

All Aboard

As of August 31st my captain and I became full-time boat dwellers. We thought we were moving aboard gradually (I thought I had moved aboard last year!) with weekend car loads yet the last load required precision packing and our body weight to close the doors. It has taken days to unpack, organize and further cull our belongings because not everything fits as things should on a cruising vessel. And despite hauling bagfuls of stuff off the boat, she is still too heavy! We are floating right on her waterline and have yet to provision for long term cruising. Therefore everyday is a contest where each of us tries to find something that is not important or we take one for the team and part with something personal. We are nearly there, but the game continues.

A Lifting Experience

While in Maine we decided to take advantage of our time and the reputable facilities at Rockport Marine to have Event Horizon hauled to replace the PYI shaft seal which required removing her shaft. Normally getting lifted is a nerve-racking event where something inevitably gets damaged. After too many bad experiences, we now carry a photo showing her in the travel-lift straps and Styrofoam padding, plus we remove the head stay before lifting. We had the usual nausea as the process began but the haul out ended with smiles. Despite this being a simple job, no less than 8 people came in direct contact with us and the boat. Each person (who first introduced themselves) specialized in one step of the process. From escorting us to the dock, lifting, cleaning her hull, the job at hand and launching, the Rockport Marine team was professional and flawless. A few hours later we were safely back in the water and incurred costs less than what most comparable New England boatyards charge.

We also had our baby weighed. She came in at a whopping 46,000 lbs (and not yet provisioned for long term cruising!)

Whales, Porpoise and Seals. Oh My!

With each trip to Maine, I am reminded why I love it. Nature abounds both on and off shore to the point that wildlife and sea life sightings become common yet always exciting. Her coast is dotted with little towns full of character and each is inhabited by characters.

On this trip we spent most days in the Penobscot Bay area, including Rockport where we experienced the launching of the impressive Spirit of Bermuda, recently built by Rockport Marine.

We also visited with our cruising friends who operate a summer charter business aboard their beautiful Schooner Heron, which we highly recommend if you are ever near the Rockland or Camden areas.

There are also many islands in Penobscot Bay, many of which are long time summer colonies. A trip highlight was visiting Carvers Harbor, a charming working harbor filled with lobster boats (more than I have ever witnessed in any one harbor) located on the southern end of Vinalhaven Island.

Upon arrival we were greeted by a lobsterman who took us to his spare mooring at a cost of $30 for the night. Other fishermen attach self-serve bottles to their spare moorings. Carvers borders the islands main commerce street which impressed us and includes a grocery, hardware, liquor store and several restaurants, including The Haven which was the dinning highlight of our trip and not to be missed on yours.

Dressing for Success Underwater

Along with work and sailing our usual New England waters, I have started to prepare for life outside of the US this winter. The latest word from my captain is that we are headed south - further south this time where swimming is a daily option of exercise - The Caribbean! I am currently surrounded by cruising guides and making to-do lists. We (my captain, me and our floating home) are not accustomed to hot weather living. Heck, we are barely used to 3 months of warm weather. Among my long list of things to do is stuff like stocking up on natural sunscreens & insect repellents, buying roach traps and fly strips and switching our cold weather wardrobes into one more suitable for idyllic island living.

One dreaded task item was replacing my old swim attire since both suits are on the brink of disintegration. So off I went to my favorite department store. I quickly learned the only thing worse than shopping for bathing suits is shopping for bathing suits towards the end of the swim season. After a quick browse I did not find any to my liking, which I now realize should not have been such a surprise. Round two had me pulling anything within my two-size-range that I would not be embarrassed to be seen in. All I want is to be able to snorkel or clean the bottom of my home without incident. It was slim pickings. Most suits had more dangling trinkets and light catching devices than a high-end fishing lure. No thank you. I want to watch the fish, not have them following me or nipping at me like a snack.

After countless trips to the changing rooms, success was had. The best part was crossing off this arduous task from my list.

Seeing Green

A good sailor tries to be environmental with every tack in life. Thoughtful and resourceful, Ideal Bite is on a mission to help the planet by helping us change our (sometimes bad) habits. They offer clever ideas that are good for you and our earth. And believe it or not, many of the suggestions are easy small steps that yield big results. Have fun and get smart by hanging out in their Tip Library. Or perhaps you have green wisdom to share?

Back On The Water

For a while there I was afraid that I might need to change my blog name from Life Afloat to Landlocked! You see, with my return to Boston a strong force took hold and quickly pulled me back to the ways I had worked so hard to wean myself from. Oh yes, it has been wonderful seeing friends, visiting my favorite shops and haunts, attending museum exhibits and other special events, and having access to just about any and everything, but clearly I was (ok, still am) too weak to have returned this soon. The pull of American society (norms) and consumerism is stronger than me, and I am ashamed. I have bought numerous pieces of non-boat-appropriate clothing, shoes AND fashion conscious accessories, none of which will properly fit in my locker space when it is time for a real offshore passage. And I have returned to my lustful ways of wining and dining beyond a sailors budget just because I have had paying website gigs and access to so much. Apparently the Betty Ford Center does not handle my addiction so it is back to boat living in Rhode Island for me. I am physically removing myself from Boston and her temptations. Then I intend to pull myself together and get back to what really matters; proper provisioning, a clean boat, ready-to-wear foul weather gear, planning the next trip and blogging.

Desalinated

It took us days of washing and wiping (praise to Murphys Oil Soap!) and countless loads of laundry to desalinate our home, but we are again squeaky clean. Now I am ready for the next adventure. But when? Where? These are the questions my captain and I have been struggling with everyday while the magnetic pull of work and society take us off course, despite our planning and toiling over the past 3 years to escape these norms, if only temporary. As we endeavor to stay on course, my days are filled with taking advantage of my local amenities, working to fill the coffers, spending cherished time with friends and catching up on news. Speaking of news, are you aware that the US House of Representatives will soon vote on whether or not to preserve Internet freedom? Please take the time to take action before it is too late! Just click on the attached graphic.

Bermuda to Newport

Departed Thursday, April 13th at 13:00
Arrived in Wickford, RI on Tuesday April 18th at 03:30
779 nautical miles in 4 days 14.5 hours
Crew of 1.5 (Captain Paul and still-healing me)

Day 1 we made excellent progress along the rhumb line despite 6-9ft seas but later needed to head west to keep a good wind angle and avoid foul weather developing to the east.

Day 2 we completed our second day of 170nm but the wind direction was no longer conducive for heading west so we encountered weather. Close-hauled, we began beating into large confused seas and I was confined to the safety of my bunk. (This is where I would spend most of the next 3 days.)

Day 3 brought squalls, winds gusting to 50kts and breaking waves (giant gray walls of water 20-25ft high) over the bow and sometimes from port, filling the cockpit. We were granted a 6 hour reprieve before reaching the Gulf Stream so I ventured out on deck for several hours where I was surrounded by the eeriness of a gray sky, gray air and grayer water. Meanwhile Paul got some much needed sleep. To our surprise, the Gulf Stream seas started off easier then expected, large but less confused. Now our battle was with the tide. After 4 hours of beating to windward at 7.5 knots, the stream was against us at over 5 knots so little progress was made, and there we literally stood bracing for the whiplash once the stream let go. Then there was another round of squalls, including a dramatic white squall. We continued under stay sail (storm sail) alone and took comfort in knowing things would get better soon, after all, our weather routing service was helping us avoid the worst weather.

My positive attitude diminished by the hour on Day 4 which brought the most uncomfortable conditions I have ever sailed. I also believe this was the day Paul decided to take up golf. Beating again, the boat excelled but brought me pain as it slammed down wave after wave or on occasion, the wave would slam down on us. Luckily we were, for the most part, out at sea alone and able to stay down below and safely keep watch through the hatch bimini window. (I was almost thankful to have a rib injury that permitted me to retreat to my warm, dry bunk.) By now, Paul had become my hero and an expert in single handling the boat, including all reefing configurations. I was amazed and encouraged throughout this adventure by the fun he claimed to be having practicing storm tactics. Paul said you would never knowingly go out in this stuff, but it was an excellent opportunity to validate those definitive heavy weather sailing texts. Day 4 was also Easter and some how the Easter bunny managed to deliver a giant Cadbury chocolate & hazelnut egg which was savored throughout the day. Ahh the power of good chocolate. Oh yes, back to the sail. For hours the wind direction prohibited us from getting to windward to exit the stream.

After what seemed like days of rain and crashing waves, we felt like we were living in an aquarium. Paul swears he saw a dolphin wink at him as it passed on the face of a wave. On numerous accounts we did see porpoise swimming alongside us or playing in our bow wake. At this time I would like to thank the makers of Ibuprofen (for the ribs) and Stugeron (seasickness) for making and living-through this trip possible.

Initially it was the last leg of the trip that we dreaded due to beating into the cold New England air, but it turned out to be a welcomed change that brought calm seas, sunshine and dry air during the day. That night our wind died and weather changed. We had to engine into the Narragansett Bay under a dark sky and rain. Upon reaching state-side Paul turned on the TV for kicks and we happened to catch a little of the news. We are still not sure if we were lucky or unlucky, but we learned that after 15 years of deciding what to do with it, the old Jamestown Bridge was slated to be blown up in a few hours. So we made a quick call to the Coast Guard to learn that the west passage was closed, which meant we had to go the long way around Conanicut Island to get back to Wickford. After 4.5 days in Mother Nature's amusement park, what is a couple of extra hours in the cold rain? We made it and after a few hours of sleep we got to witness the bridge center span blow. Now we are back in Rhode Island with a salty boat (inside and out) to clean and a long to-due-list before the next adventure.

Bermuda - Day 149

Commanders weather routing service (our wise second opinion) agrees that a good weather window is upon us. We have only a few tasks to complete and then we will clear customs before setting sail from Bermuda mid-day.

Our rhumb line to Newport, Rhode Island is 628nm and we hope to do an average of at least 7knots, so we estimate our passage back to Wickford to take about 5 days. You may track our whereabouts through Shiptrak, but do not be alarmed if these reports stop. This just means we are too busy attending to other things.

Thanks for all the good wishes and prayers!