Remedies

The best medicine so far is definitely time with friends - seeing friends in person to catch up on the little things that escaped the past several months of internet communications. I’m also finding that walking helps - walking everywhere as if exploring a new landfall for the first time. It reminds me why so many people visit these special areas and why I’ve been happy to call them home for so many years. Going to a winning Red Sox game at Fenway Park is another dose of good medicine.

Getting Back into the Groove

Returning to my old stomping grounds, mostly Boston and Newport, has felt odd. Yes, it’s great to be back to places and people that I love, but this time my return feels different and the transition has been less smooth. I guess my captain was right, I adopted the island ways quickly and too comfortably. I feel as if I’ve been away for years, not 7 short months. It’s not so much the things around me have changed, it’s more my lack of ability to cope with basic things that were never an issue before. If such a thing exists, I believe my societal immune system has broken down. Most days I am overwhelmed by even small crowds, common noise and too many choices for everything. Is there a remedy?

Return to US Shores, June ‘07

My return to US shores has granted me the first of many things since I departed about 7 months ago. It started with my first land shower. Really. At first I thought the marina installed a new shower head but then realized it was just that I had become accustomed to boat showers. Not a hardship by any means, but without realizing it, I’d adjusted to not getting that massage-like pressure you get with a good American land shower. Anyway, my first land shower was wonderful, but I did feel a bit guilty about using so much water.

Other firsts in over 7 months included sleeping on land, driving a car, going to a movie theater and wearing real shoes (not my beloved Crocs, flip flops or sailing shoes) which surprised me with a free blister collection.

4,500nm

Review of Event Horizon’s logbook shows I sailed over 4,500 nautical miles between when I departed the US on Oct 30th, 2006 and returned yesterday. I hope there will be many more miles to log…

Fun fact: 1 nautical mile is equal to about 1.15 miles or 1.852 km used by land lubbers.

Bermuda to Newport 2007

My captain and I departed Bermuda early Sunday, May 20th to sail 700nm in four days (171nm,184nm,176nm,169nm), arriving in Newport, Rhode Island on Thursday morning, May 24th.

This trip laid my doubts to rest. It IS possible to have a comfortable Bermuda/Newport route passage. Despite cold air that kept us in foul weather gear and unusual patches of light air, it was our easiest and fastest (out of four) trip to date.

Special thanks to our Bermudian friends, especially Bermuda Yacht Services, for making our latest stay on their beautiful yachtie-friendly island so pleasurable.

Returning to Newport

Yesterday an unexpected good weather window for heading north started to present itself on the 5-day weather charts. Therefore my captain has decided we will depart ahead of schedule. Today St George's village (especially the fuel dock, sail loft and grocery store) is a busy place with sailors quickly preparing to depart as early as this evening (for small or slower boats) and throughout tomorrow morning. We're planning a sunrise departure and a 4.5 day trip that will have us arriving in the Narragansett Bay sometime Thursday, May 24th.

Lucky for all, our guests opted for the comforts of a hotel for their final days, relieving a bit of our guilt for leaving before them. It was a fast paced morning but we are ready to set sail but for now we will go ashore once more to check-out, say our goodbyes and spend the last of our Bermudian money.

Burrrr

Life in Bermuda is good despite the unusually cool temperatures and news that it has been warmer in New England. Most evenings are painfully chilly because I refuse to wear pants. After all it is springtime. But it’s been impossible to avoid wearing fleece and sometimes a coat. Even my captain has felt the need to turn on the Espar (heat) a few times.

I have been revisiting my favorite places and enjoying Bermuda’s beauty, especially her blue waters. The island is a buzz with tourists, especially from cruise ships. Seasonal businesses and weekly events are in full swing, making the island feel bigger and giving everyone more to explore. The harbour is filled with boats - and often the pubs with sailors - due to numerous poor weather systems that are making it difficult to safely head north. While most sailors are frustrated, I’ve been enjoying their company and making new friends.

Crowd Welcomes Us in Bermuda

As customary, upon arrival in Bermuda we first cleared customs and immigration. Afterwards, since the winds were favorable, we went to the fuel dock. Already my captain and I were reminded how friendly Bermudians are. It felt good to be back. We anchored and commenced cleaning the boat and ourselves in preparation for going ashore for some land time, a cold beer and a good meal cooked by someone else. About an hour later, things took a wild turn.

A police boat flew into St George’s Harbour and immediately pulled along side us, insisting that we return to the customs dock immediately. The police boat circled the boat while we put the dock lines and fenders back on and lifted anchor. (We could already see people out on boats with their binoculars!) We were escorted to the customs dock where over 10 assorted officers & officials were waiting for us. Several of whom promptly boarded us with a dog. They were looking for drugs. Meanwhile others questioned my captain and me separately. After the dog found nothing, two men searched the boat. Luckily they were not destructive to anything as they apparently often are and lawfully can be.

Thankfully we had nothing to hide, but it was still an unnerving experience. Especially hearing all the whispers (voices travel far on/near water) from onlookers (there was a cruise ship in town) and people waiting for the ferry.

Eventually we were safely on anchor again, but the talk of the town. As my captain said “we were tried, convicted and sentenced by a large peanut gallery."

Endless chats about the ordeal with friends and other locals confirm that this was not a routine search or training exercise (apparently only the big boys were present). What little we can learn is that the authorities had been tipped off, which is the most bazaar part to us. Many believe we were either used as a decoy or they had our boat mixed up with another. Despite trying, no one can find out anything more so we’ll never know. If I learned one thing it's to not assume anything the next time I see drug dogs on someone else’s boat or on or in their anything. Interesting how we jump to conclusions. Even our closest local friends who were witnessing the crowd drawing event admitted that they were saying to themselves, "couldn't be so, could it???”

St Maarten to Bermuda

Event Horizon departed St Martin early Thursday, April 19th and after 1070nm arrived in Bermuda Thursday, April 26th. It was a much longer trip than expected - 7 days to the hour – due to light winds that were always on our bow. (It took us less than 4.5 days to sail south.) The slow speed drove my captain mad, so I tried to hide my happiness over the delay in leaving warm Caribbean waters. It was my longest passage at sea and thoroughly enjoyed. Aside from swells the first two days, it was surprisingly calm and we managed to skirt most of the rain. Frequent sail changes kept us exercised and numerous pods of dolphins and iPods kept us entertained.

Points of Interest in St Martin

If only in St Martin briefly, try your best to visit:

The appropriately named Sunset Beach Bar at Maho Beach. If the frozen cocktails, beautiful beach and picturesque sunset doesn’t wow you, the thrill (and roar) of planes passing directly over head as they arrive and depart from Juliana International Airport will.

Marigot, the capital of the French side of bi-national St Maarten / St Martin is home to a famous open-air Public Market open most days until 2pm, but Wednesday and Saturday are the main market days and the best time to go. Vendors come from nearby islands with local spices, produce, fresh fish and crafts. I found the market to have the best selection and prices for locally made gifts and souvenirs.

Grand Case, located at the northern tip of St Martin, is a charming French Caribbean seaside village famous for its restaurants and distinctive small wooden houses painted in pastels.

Philipsburg, the capital of Dutch St. Maarten is four streets deep and one mile long. Best known for its variety of duty free shops (all of the island is duty free) including electronics, jewelry, perfume, linens and alcohol. If you are a fan of fine spirits, I encourage you to visit Gulmohar’s at 76 Front Street where you will find a superb selection and many bottles open for taste testing, including hard-to-find single malts and rums.

Free WiFi – St Martin

Best spots for free fast connectivity (including good quality Skype calls) while staying in the Simpson Bay area:

McDonald’s – yes, those famous golden arches, located next to Sint Maarten (Dutch) Simpson Bay Bridge and Immigration office

Shrimpy’s Dockside Bar caters to a cruiser’s every need. Accessible from 46 Airport Road or inside the lagoon by dingy, it’s located in a corner of the Simpson Bay lagoon next to the airport runway extension in a little marina called Portofino.

Easter 2007

My captain and I returned to Simpson Bay, St Maarten late on Easter. Our sail up island was a perfect run thanks to steady 16-20kt winds and our 135% headsail, which also provided much needed shade. It was my second consecutive Easter at sea, and the Easter bunny surprised us again with Cadbury chocolates.

Down Island

After saying goodbye to BVI on April 1st, we sailed down island for the last days of our Caribbean winter…

First stop, Saint Martin where our good friend Captain Parkins joined us for what would turn into a fast and furious tour of several islands. We began with a day spent on Sint Maarten (Dutch) and the following day in Saint-Martin (French). An early morning departure had us sailing further down island towards Antigua. It was a beautiful sail that brought us close to St Eustatius and St Kitts (photo left). But light winds on our bow made it a longer than expected trip so as the afternoon escaped us, we opted for happy hour and dinner on Nevis Island (photo right).We arrived after Customs & Immigration had closed but were able to clear-in and out with the police department. We walked the main town of Charlestown and tried our best to hang out with the locals. Then we made our way along the expansive Pinney’s Beach which took us to the famous Sunshine’s beach bar for Killer Bees. We continued our stroll along the beach and enjoyed a beautiful sunset and an alfresco dinner at Mango. Our return to the boat was followed by a customary night swim and an unusually early night as the next day would begin with a 3am departure.

Antigua (part 2 of Down Island)

To our surprise it was another 12 hrs of beating before we arrived in Falmouth Harbour, Antigua.

The purpose of our adventure to Antigua was to meet up with mutual friends on holiday which we did that evening at the Mad Mongoose. It just happened to be rum punch night so I’ll let your imagination finish this story…but know that the night ended with all six of us enjoying a night swim off the Event Horizon and staying aboard for a sleep-over.

After a whirlwind visit that included beautiful historic English Harbour, my captain and I set sail to return to St Martin.

Bottom 2 photos are taken outside the Admiral's Inn which is located in Nelson's Dockyard, English Harbour.

Goodbye BVI

The end of March flew past as I tried to fill each day with my favorite things, including time with new friends, and savor every moment knowing it was the countdown to my departure. Added excitement to the final days included the Cricket World Cup (held every four years and this time it happened to take place throughout the West Indies) and the BVI Spring Regatta festivities.

Week of Feasts

Back in Soper's Hole has felt like being home. For days it was a reunion with most of our new friends being around for at least a couple of days as they dropped-off or picked-up quests. Most evenings were, again, spent hanging out in “The Lounge”, the gangs given name to the most heralded of our boat cockpits (spacious with comfy cushions) who’s boat name will remain anonymous to protect, well, to protect us all!

As for the feasting, it all started just after most of the gang had departed. It was one of those rare days when we had a rental car to take us into Road Town. This time we went in at night to experience the famed C&F Restaurant, known for its barbeque. We had heard so much, and one among us had been before to confirm that it did indeed rank among the world’s best barbeque. We all hemmed and hawed as to whether we should get the ribs or the chicken. Maybe a mix of entrees we could all share? But as plates were served around us we all caved and ordered a chicken and rib combo. We had to try both and there would be no sharing. I found the decor island kitschy cool and service like grandmother's house. We waited restlessly like children in church until mounded plates were placed in front of each of us. Then aside from the occasional grunt of pleasure, we ate in silence, at one with our meat. It did not disappoint! We departed all smiles with take-out containers in-hand.

Then trauma struck. The Lounge lost its refrigeration at the start of a long holiday weekend. (Commonwealth Day) Repair service was uncertain and ice would extend the life of the freezer's contents for only so long. Their misfortune was my boon, hence the week of feasts. Anticipated evenings of grilled carnivorous dinners consisting of moist tender chicken breast basted with gourmet sauces or large juicy melt-in-your-mouth strip or tenderloin steaks recently hand delivered from prime US cattle country. It was just cause to unearth our finest bottles of stowed wine and forgo with any side dishes.

We nearly ate its contents before the refrigeration was back to normal, but at least it was fixed in time for The Lounge to wine and dine their scheduled paying charter. So I have gone from feasting to fasting. Is not it supposed to be the other way around?

Saba Island

My captain decided we should return to West End, Tortola, my winter neighborhood, since he would again be traveling for his day job. But first we would add a little more distance to our journey to feed my hunger for another island and sail to Saba Island. Our departure was unexpectedly riveting and alarming as we tried to avoid and yet crossed paths with the big-boat fleet racing, each of us sailing at top speeds due to 24kt winds under full canvas.

The passage to Saba (SAY-bah) was fast and breathtaking as we watched her once volcanic peak grow with our approach. Upon reaching Fort Bay the fetch and rough chop prohibited us from safely going ashore to customs and immigration. To buy time we picked up a distant mooring where the winds forced us to have lunch down below. With an uncomfortable sea state and no relief in sight, we decided to take advantage of the wind and set sail for Tortola. Our landfall was not meant to be this time.

It does not take much research to learn that Saba is unlike other Caribbean islands and that Sabans have much to be proud of, including their tolerance of differences. I hope to experience it in person someday, but in the meantime I will share some fun facts. Saba is 5 sq miles and about 1500 people reside here where nearly every step you take is either up or down hill. Five completely separate temperature zones exist (try packing for that!) and visitors come for her village charm, ecotourism, hiking and diving, which is reputed to be the best in the Caribbean. There are no beaches, instead her steep shores fall into the sea in depths often too deep for anchoring, so it may be easier to take a ferry or plane from Sint Maarten.

Now you want to visit Saba too, don’t you?

St Maarten

St Maarten is very popular among boaters so I was eager to experience it for myself. It is the only island in the Caribbean where you find two islands sharing one land mass and it is the smallest island in the world ever to have been partitioned between two different nations. During my short stay I only got to visit Dutch Sint Maarten which occupies the southern part of the island, but hope to return so I may also visit French Saint Martin on the northern side.

We anchored in Simpson Bay, just outside the bridge entrance to Simpson Lagoon, which is known for its excellent marine facilities including mega yacht marinas. Amazing sail and power mega yachts were everywhere. Some yachts had helicopters and boats larger than Event Horizon on their decks. It was unbelievable and among boaters, referred to as boat porn.

This friendly island is a duty-free zone and visitors may stay as long as three months. All welcomed changes for the Event Horizon crew! For only $1 each way I took a bus, well actually a van but they call it the bus (you have to look at the license plates of vans to see if it says bus or taxi), up and over a mountain into the capital of Philipsburg, which is filled with open air kiosks and duty-free shops. My timing was excellent as it was a rare occasion with no cruise ships in town allowing me to have a wonderful experience as I strolled the towns three main and many side streets. I found some men making beautiful baskets from palm leaves which I could not resist. The baskets will gradually turn from bright green into a light brown color as the leaves dry, resulting in a sturdy useful boat item.

This European influenced island is cosmopolitan casual and filled with happy tourists spending Guilders or US$ on the Dutch side and Euro or US$ on the French side. We loved the wide selection of goods, low prices and variety of ethnic restaurants, including Indian which we enjoyed a few times. Most street vendors, shops and bar happy hours sell cold beers for $1 which can be enjoyed inside or on the move. We learned of a new refreshing beer called Amstel Bright (nothing like Amstel or Amstel Light) clearly trying to woo Corona and Carib drinkers. I did a little online research to learn it is “brewed with desalinated seawater and 100% natural Curacao ingredients, Amstel Bright is a light, thirst-quenching Caribbean sensation.” Unfortunately only available in the Netherlands and in the Netherlands Antilles. But Heineken was the beer for the masses as our visit coincided with the 27th Annual Heineken Regatta. Over 200 boats from around the globe racing and a 5-day revolving party all made for an exciting time for both racers and spectators.

Night Swim

Time for us to check-out of the BVI, again. This time we decided to ventured further south to explore another island, St Martin. We opted to leave in the early evening which is common, making the ocean passage at night to enable landfall during daylight hours. With easterly winds forecasted it would be a 75nm dead beat to weather, but this is the way my captain likes it (sick, I know) and I was just happy to be going some place new.

South of Virgin Gorda surrounded by darkness we snagged a line of lobster pots. Unable to free ourselves, we were forced to cut the line. The tangled mess required lots of cutting and yet we were still dragging something. Unsure if we had a line dangerously wrapped around the rudder, prop or both, my captain and I looked at each other knowing that one of us needed to get into the water to check things out.

I was not sure which job would be worse, staying aboard to keep the boat de-powered or entering the black water. Knowing my captain is more skilled at man-overboard rescue than me, I donned my snorkeling outfit. My captain accessorized my outfit with an underwater light (so I could see what I was doing and so that he could find me if I got separated from the boat) and a divers knife. I was too busy trying to avoid a concussion from the pounding transom to even think about anything lurking in the water. I found a float on a long line caught between the rudder and the hull, which I eventually cut free, and luckily the prop was fine.

No damage done and the beat goes on…

Sweethearts of the Caribbean

On Saturday, February 17th I had the honor of crewing aboard Schooner Heron (our friends from Rockport, Maine) in the 29th Annual Sweethearts of the Caribbean Regatta sponsored by the West End Yacht Club. It was a fun race because the lead positions changed often due to frequent changes in wind direction and speed, including a wind hole in the middle of the course allowing the trailing boats to catch up. The last leg had two Alden designs fighting for the lead, the outcome remained uncertain until Heron crossed the finish line a tail feather ahead to receive first place in the annual schooner race. The awards ceremony and continued celebration took place at the Jolly Roger restaurant, which is also the home of the yacht club. You can check out regatta photos at http://www.digiproofs.com/ecom/page_view.pl?p=E9ABgKF .

Island Hopping

Some call it island hopping but bar hopping is more accurate! Gradually but surely we are sailing to other parts of the BVI, including Jost Van Dyke and Norman Islands. While all of the BVI is a sailors paradise, each bay or cay is often identified by its bars.

For example, on Jost Van Dyke, White Bay is best known for the Soggy Dollar Bar, (home of the Foxys. Yet main street that's a beach or its six square miles of palm trees, steep hills and white-sand beaches.

As for Norman Island, boaters flock to The Bight, a well sheltered bay that is home to two popular drinking establishments, the Pirates Bight and William Thornton, a floating bar often called the Willy T. But what is best about this area is the snorkeling (and diving), especially at "The Caves" and "The Indians”.

By now I should have acquired an extensive t-shirt collection as proof of my bar-hopping-by-boat adventures yet I have refrained, opting to keep the money in my cruising coffers. After all there is much more hopping to be done.

Update in the Virgin Islands

Too much time has passed since my last blog. After I last wrote we spent a week sailing around St John, USVI exploring her beautiful beaches and snorkeling reefs. The following photos were taken of Event Horizon as we rounded the west side of St John. http://www.digiproofs.com/ecom/page_view.pl?p=G0r5e1O

Most of our time has been spent in Sopers Hole, West End, Tortola where we have good internet connectivity for doing our day jobs and all important amenities nearby. Each day holds much of the same, great weather, daylight hours spent doing boat chores and web work, and fun-filled evenings thanks to the company of sailing friends. On the occasional day one of the sailing friends will rent a car and then several of the gang will happily join the road trip, usually to the big town of Road Town to visit all of the chandleries and favorite provisioning shops, including a fantastic bakery I discovered in Road Town that is part of the New England Culinary Institute.

Every 20 plus days we do the cruising dance. This is when we must check-out of the BVI (the maximum stay is 30 days, which we have yet to be granted). We typically sail to nearby St John, USVI and check-in at Cruz Bay. (Since we are a USA documented vessel and my captain and I are both US citizens, we do not need to check-out of the USVI. Plus, on our last visit to U.S. Customs and Immigration we were able to sign-up and secure id cards for a local boaters option program that allows us to check-in by telephone the next time we arrive to the USVI or Puerto Rico.) Partial to the British side, we usually check back into the BVI the following day.

USVI

Technically my captain and I returned to the US this weekend when we entered the US Virgin Islands. At the request of every sailor we know, we checked in with customs and immigration in Cruz Bay, St John before continuing west to St Thomas where we have been checking out marinas for future reference. The first couple of nights we anchored in Honeymoon Bay, which is on the west side of Water Island near Charlotte Amalie, where to our delight fellow RI cruisers on Queen of Hearts were also enjoying the beautiful palm tree lined cove.

Full Moon

On January 3rd I attended my first full moon party at Bomba Shack. This well known surfside shack is located on the white sand shores of Capoons Bay on the north shore of Tortola. It was a unique outing (ladies panties and bras dangle from the roof, and signs offer free T-shirts if you get naked) but the overall experience seemed over hyped. Perhaps things would have been different had I drank their famous mushroom tea, but then hallucinating is not my idea of fun. Instead I opted for the tasty Bomba rum punch. At least I was among entertaining company, the band was good and we got to hang out with Naz who was on holiday and celebrating the success of his latest CD Hip Hop is Dead.

Days Of Our Lives In BVI

Our intended one night stay in Sopers Hole quickly turned into six days of fun thanks to several new friends. There were beachside gatherings (always in front of Patricia, who offers some of the best blender drinks and jerk chicken we have ever experienced), evenings at the Jolly Roger and boat invites.

We hoped the fun would continue as we tidied the boat in preparation for our first guests, three friends flying in from Boston.

Our friends arrived via Jet Blue to San Juan, Puerto Rico, Cape Air to St Thomas, USVI and then ferry to West End, Tortola. The days flew as we back tracked to our favorite BVI locals, as now my captain and I were also on vacation and ready to play. We started at Smugglers Cove, then sailed to Virgin Gorda for a night ashore in Spanish Town were we visited one of our favorite night spots, The Rock Cafe, followed by a day at The Baths. Then we sailed north to Gorda Sound where we snorkeled more, frequented Saba Rock, hiked to Biras Creek and welcomed in the New Year at the Bitter End Yacht Club. We ended our holiday with a race, sailing friends with a 51ft Hinkley and a 62ft Little Harbor, back to Sopers Hole in West End, Tortola.

Christmas Day 2006

I hung stockings and a small wreath, had presents for my captain and opened special edible treats for the occasion but it still did not feel like Christmas. With the sun shining and no plans, we packed our snorkeling gear and hiked back to Smugglers Cove. As before we were greeted with clean soft sand and two beach bars. The crystal clear water beckons even non-swimmers and there is a reef on each far side to entertain any snorkeler. I also enjoy watching the Pelicans dive-bomb for fish often alongside snorkelers. It may not have felt like Christmas but it felt good.

Fun fact. Smugglers Cove was the location for the 1990 movie re-make, adapted from a novel by Ernest Hemingway, The Old Man and the Sea starring Anthony Quinn.

West End, Tortola

With a long Christmas weekend approaching, we decided to explore the BVI further and departed Virgin Gorda. Friday evening we anchored in Great Harbour off Peter Island for a quiet night. The next day we sailed to the West End of Tortola where we settled into Sopers Hole, a picturesque harbour with great amenities. We had spent little time ashore since Bermuda so the first action item was to go for a hike. We found a dirt road and pondered, is it a driveway or a road? We took a chance and started to climb the steep hill. The hot sunshine made us question our route but we continued on. After what seemed like a long distance we rounded the hill to find welcomed shade in our path. We trekked on and were rewarded with a view of Jost Van Dyke Island to our left. Parched beyond belief we encountered a fellow walker who assured us that there was a beach ahead with liquid refreshments, so we carried on. As we headed down the other side of the mountain, now on the north side of Tortola, we caught a breath taking view of a beach in the distance. Our pace increased. Hot, muddy and fearing hallucination from thirst we found paradise. Smugglers Cove. We had stumbled upon what many claim is the best beach in BVI.

Walking backwards in awe of the view, we approached a beach bar for fruit smoothies. It would turn out to be one of many tasty concoctions created for us from a blender connected to a car battery for power. As surprising as our surroundings we also met fellow sailors huddled around the make-shift bar, who for some reason or another had also found there way to Patricias Beach Bar on this hot Christmas Eve afternoon.

The Office

After locating the proper cable and Norseman fittings in Road Town, Tortola and several days of planning the underwater operation, the event horizon dive team successfully replaced the centerboard cable without any problems. (I am still in awe of my captains ingenuity.) So we are back to business as usual. Speaking of which, the view from our office has been changing daily as we continue to search for a reliable internet connection.

18 30 N, 64 30 W

After a good night sleep, I spent most of the next day in the water, just outside of Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour. It started out as a reconnaissance mission for the injured centerboard but turned into a day of underwater exploration. I saw an amazing array of sea life around and under the boat including several sea turtles, a sting ray, a barracuda, and endless schools of beautiful fish I have yet to identify. (Must buy a reference book!) It has felt good to stretch the muscles, and I do believe the water is calling me again.

Bermuda to BVI 2006

Upon nearing landfall in the early morning hours of Friday, Dec 15th, a tall gray mass began to appear on the horizon. Eventually a volcano mountain took shape and kept me entranced for miles. We reached the British Virgin Islands in less than 5 days thanks to steady 20-30 knot northeast winds that allowed us to sail 955nm on a one-tack beam reach. As recommended by many sailors, we cleared customs and immigration in Spanish Town on Virgin Gorda where all important services and amenities surround the harbour area.

I am happy to report it was a relatively bruise-free passage. I also thought we avoided any breakage but on the last day we realized the centerboard was down because its cable had broke. So despite our beautiful surroundings we (especially my captain!) are preoccupied with acquiring the necessary parts to fix the problem. Meanwhile we now have about a 14 foot draft, which is too much for most of the harbours so we need to anchor outside in less sheltered areas, which also means longer dinghy rides to shore and limited internet options. But the main thing is that we have finally arrived safely to the Caribbean where it is warm, beautiful and there are endless areas to explore.

Geography lesson. The Virgin Islands are an archipelago comprised of several small islands and cays that are considered two groups of islands, the United States Virgin Islands (USVI) and the British Virgin Islands (BVI). The USVI consist of 3 larger islands (St Thomas, St John and St Croix) and over 50 smaller islets and cays. The total area of the USVI is 133 square miles. The BVI (which lie to the north east of the USVI) are made up of 4 larger islands (Tortola, Virgin Gorda, Jost van Dyke and Anegada) and 32 smaller islands. The total area of the BVI is 59 square miles.

Caribbean Bound

Finally, we are off to the Caribbean! We are leaving early tomorrow morning on the back of a cold front that has just passed over Bermuda, providing good NE winds to take my captain and me south to the British Virgin Islands . We expect the 830nm passage to Virgin Gorda to take about 6 days. During this trip I will celebrate my first birthday at sea, turning 39 years young for the sixth time (you do the math). I was hoping to be on land for the occasion so that I could have a cocktail in hand (we never consume alcohol while at sea) but that is not to be. Instead I will look forward to celebrating two things in Spanish Town, my birthday and a safe passage.

Southbound

Our stay in Bermuda has been longer than intended (over a month!) but rewarding thanks to our Bermudian friends.

The once steady flow of boats stopping here for respite, fuel or repairs has slowed to a trickle. St Georges Harbour, recently dotted with lingering boats awaiting parts and repairs, has nearly emptied. Both are signs that the traditional southbound passage for a Caribbean winter is closing. It is time for us to depart.

So, we are in squirrel mode again, provisioning, storing and stowing in preparation for the next good weather window for passage to Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda, which is part of the British Virgin Islands.

Wickford, RI to Bermuda 2006

It is hard to believe we have already been in Bermuda 12 days. Long enough for the trips bruises and unpleasantries to fade. Our passage was 720 nautical miles from dock to dock and completed in less than 4 days. It was a very fast trip thanks to steady southwest winds and our determination to out run an approaching storm towards the end of our trip. Most of the voyage was made under a double or triple reefed mainsail and storm staysail creating an average speed of 8 knots.

It was also a wet trip where the occasional wave caused the inflation of a lifejacket as shown in the photo.

With each trip lessons are learned and improvements are identified. The fast passing days in Bermuda have been spent applying our new learning by making assorted repairs and alterations, cleaning and organizing everything from lockers to ourselves. (Luckily our damages were minimal compared to most boats passing through this season.) And when not doing this fun stuff, my captain is steadfast with his engineering work and I am gradually getting back to my web clients and a normal day to day routine.

All Aboard

As of August 31st my captain and I became full-time boat dwellers. We thought we were moving aboard gradually (I thought I had moved aboard last year!) with weekend car loads yet the last load required precision packing and our body weight to close the doors. It has taken days to unpack, organize and further cull our belongings because not everything fits as things should on a cruising vessel. And despite hauling bagfuls of stuff off the boat, she is still too heavy! We are floating right on her waterline and have yet to provision for long term cruising. Therefore everyday is a contest where each of us tries to find something that is not important or we take one for the team and part with something personal. We are nearly there, but the game continues.

A Lifting Experience

While in Maine we decided to take advantage of our time and the reputable facilities at Rockport Marine to have Event Horizon hauled to replace the PYI shaft seal which required removing her shaft. Normally getting lifted is a nerve-racking event where something inevitably gets damaged. After too many bad experiences, we now carry a photo showing her in the travel-lift straps and Styrofoam padding, plus we remove the head stay before lifting. We had the usual nausea as the process began but the haul out ended with smiles. Despite this being a simple job, no less than 8 people came in direct contact with us and the boat. Each person (who first introduced themselves) specialized in one step of the process. From escorting us to the dock, lifting, cleaning her hull, the job at hand and launching, the Rockport Marine team was professional and flawless. A few hours later we were safely back in the water and incurred costs less than what most comparable New England boatyards charge.

We also had our baby weighed. She came in at a whopping 46,000 lbs (and not yet provisioned for long term cruising!)

Whales, Porpoise and Seals. Oh My!

With each trip to Maine, I am reminded why I love it. Nature abounds both on and off shore to the point that wildlife and sea life sightings become common yet always exciting. Her coast is dotted with little towns full of character and each is inhabited by characters.

On this trip we spent most days in the Penobscot Bay area, including Rockport where we experienced the launching of the impressive Spirit of Bermuda, recently built by Rockport Marine.

We also visited with our cruising friends who operate a summer charter business aboard their beautiful Schooner Heron, which we highly recommend if you are ever near the Rockland or Camden areas.

There are also many islands in Penobscot Bay, many of which are long time summer colonies. A trip highlight was visiting Carvers Harbor, a charming working harbor filled with lobster boats (more than I have ever witnessed in any one harbor) located on the southern end of Vinalhaven Island.

Upon arrival we were greeted by a lobsterman who took us to his spare mooring at a cost of $30 for the night. Other fishermen attach self-serve bottles to their spare moorings. Carvers borders the islands main commerce street which impressed us and includes a grocery, hardware, liquor store and several restaurants, including The Haven which was the dinning highlight of our trip and not to be missed on yours.

Dressing for Success Underwater

Along with work and sailing our usual New England waters, I have started to prepare for life outside of the US this winter. The latest word from my captain is that we are headed south - further south this time where swimming is a daily option of exercise - The Caribbean! I am currently surrounded by cruising guides and making to-do lists. We (my captain, me and our floating home) are not accustomed to hot weather living. Heck, we are barely used to 3 months of warm weather. Among my long list of things to do is stuff like stocking up on natural sunscreens & insect repellents, buying roach traps and fly strips and switching our cold weather wardrobes into one more suitable for idyllic island living.

One dreaded task item was replacing my old swim attire since both suits are on the brink of disintegration. So off I went to my favorite department store. I quickly learned the only thing worse than shopping for bathing suits is shopping for bathing suits towards the end of the swim season. After a quick browse I did not find any to my liking, which I now realize should not have been such a surprise. Round two had me pulling anything within my two-size-range that I would not be embarrassed to be seen in. All I want is to be able to snorkel or clean the bottom of my home without incident. It was slim pickings. Most suits had more dangling trinkets and light catching devices than a high-end fishing lure. No thank you. I want to watch the fish, not have them following me or nipping at me like a snack.

After countless trips to the changing rooms, success was had. The best part was crossing off this arduous task from my list.

Seeing Green

A good sailor tries to be environmental with every tack in life. Thoughtful and resourceful, Ideal Bite is on a mission to help the planet by helping us change our (sometimes bad) habits. They offer clever ideas that are good for you and our earth. And believe it or not, many of the suggestions are easy small steps that yield big results. Have fun and get smart by hanging out in their Tip Library. Or perhaps you have green wisdom to share?

Back On The Water

For a while there I was afraid that I might need to change my blog name from Life Afloat to Landlocked! You see, with my return to Boston a strong force took hold and quickly pulled me back to the ways I had worked so hard to wean myself from. Oh yes, it has been wonderful seeing friends, visiting my favorite shops and haunts, attending museum exhibits and other special events, and having access to just about any and everything, but clearly I was (ok, still am) too weak to have returned this soon. The pull of American society (norms) and consumerism is stronger than me, and I am ashamed. I have bought numerous pieces of non-boat-appropriate clothing, shoes AND fashion conscious accessories, none of which will properly fit in my locker space when it is time for a real offshore passage. And I have returned to my lustful ways of wining and dining beyond a sailors budget just because I have had paying website gigs and access to so much. Apparently the Betty Ford Center does not handle my addiction so it is back to boat living in Rhode Island for me. I am physically removing myself from Boston and her temptations. Then I intend to pull myself together and get back to what really matters; proper provisioning, a clean boat, ready-to-wear foul weather gear, planning the next trip and blogging.

Desalinated

It took us days of washing and wiping (praise to Murphys Oil Soap!) and countless loads of laundry to desalinate our home, but we are again squeaky clean. Now I am ready for the next adventure. But when? Where? These are the questions my captain and I have been struggling with everyday while the magnetic pull of work and society take us off course, despite our planning and toiling over the past 3 years to escape these norms, if only temporary. As we endeavor to stay on course, my days are filled with taking advantage of my local amenities, working to fill the coffers, spending cherished time with friends and catching up on news. Speaking of news, are you aware that the US House of Representatives will soon vote on whether or not to preserve Internet freedom? Please take the time to take action before it is too late! Just click on the attached graphic.

Bermuda to Newport

Departed Thursday, April 13th at 13:00
Arrived in Wickford, RI on Tuesday April 18th at 03:30
779 nautical miles in 4 days 14.5 hours
Crew of 1.5 (Captain Paul and still-healing me)

Day 1 we made excellent progress along the rhumb line despite 6-9ft seas but later needed to head west to keep a good wind angle and avoid foul weather developing to the east.

Day 2 we completed our second day of 170nm but the wind direction was no longer conducive for heading west so we encountered weather. Close-hauled, we began beating into large confused seas and I was confined to the safety of my bunk. (This is where I would spend most of the next 3 days.)

Day 3 brought squalls, winds gusting to 50kts and breaking waves (giant gray walls of water 20-25ft high) over the bow and sometimes from port, filling the cockpit. We were granted a 6 hour reprieve before reaching the Gulf Stream so I ventured out on deck for several hours where I was surrounded by the eeriness of a gray sky, gray air and grayer water. Meanwhile Paul got some much needed sleep. To our surprise, the Gulf Stream seas started off easier then expected, large but less confused. Now our battle was with the tide. After 4 hours of beating to windward at 7.5 knots, the stream was against us at over 5 knots so little progress was made, and there we literally stood bracing for the whiplash once the stream let go. Then there was another round of squalls, including a dramatic white squall. We continued under stay sail (storm sail) alone and took comfort in knowing things would get better soon, after all, our weather routing service was helping us avoid the worst weather.

My positive attitude diminished by the hour on Day 4 which brought the most uncomfortable conditions I have ever sailed. I also believe this was the day Paul decided to take up golf. Beating again, the boat excelled but brought me pain as it slammed down wave after wave or on occasion, the wave would slam down on us. Luckily we were, for the most part, out at sea alone and able to stay down below and safely keep watch through the hatch bimini window. (I was almost thankful to have a rib injury that permitted me to retreat to my warm, dry bunk.) By now, Paul had become my hero and an expert in single handling the boat, including all reefing configurations. I was amazed and encouraged throughout this adventure by the fun he claimed to be having practicing storm tactics. Paul said you would never knowingly go out in this stuff, but it was an excellent opportunity to validate those definitive heavy weather sailing texts. Day 4 was also Easter and some how the Easter bunny managed to deliver a giant Cadbury chocolate & hazelnut egg which was savored throughout the day. Ahh the power of good chocolate. Oh yes, back to the sail. For hours the wind direction prohibited us from getting to windward to exit the stream.

After what seemed like days of rain and crashing waves, we felt like we were living in an aquarium. Paul swears he saw a dolphin wink at him as it passed on the face of a wave. On numerous accounts we did see porpoise swimming alongside us or playing in our bow wake. At this time I would like to thank the makers of Ibuprofen (for the ribs) and Stugeron (seasickness) for making and living-through this trip possible.

Initially it was the last leg of the trip that we dreaded due to beating into the cold New England air, but it turned out to be a welcomed change that brought calm seas, sunshine and dry air during the day. That night our wind died and weather changed. We had to engine into the Narragansett Bay under a dark sky and rain. Upon reaching state-side Paul turned on the TV for kicks and we happened to catch a little of the news. We are still not sure if we were lucky or unlucky, but we learned that after 15 years of deciding what to do with it, the old Jamestown Bridge was slated to be blown up in a few hours. So we made a quick call to the Coast Guard to learn that the west passage was closed, which meant we had to go the long way around Conanicut Island to get back to Wickford. After 4.5 days in Mother Nature's amusement park, what is a couple of extra hours in the cold rain? We made it and after a few hours of sleep we got to witness the bridge center span blow. Now we are back in Rhode Island with a salty boat (inside and out) to clean and a long to-due-list before the next adventure.

Bermuda - Day 149

Commanders weather routing service (our wise second opinion) agrees that a good weather window is upon us. We have only a few tasks to complete and then we will clear customs before setting sail from Bermuda mid-day.

Our rhumb line to Newport, Rhode Island is 628nm and we hope to do an average of at least 7knots, so we estimate our passage back to Wickford to take about 5 days. You may track our whereabouts through Shiptrak, but do not be alarmed if these reports stop. This just means we are too busy attending to other things.

Thanks for all the good wishes and prayers!

Bermuda - Day 148

Provisioned (again), stowed (again) and ready to go. Paul continues to carefully review satellite weather images and forecasts for the right 5-day window of sailing opportunity. Day by day we wait. Day by day I am grateful for the extra day of healing in comfort. The ribs improve daily. (Now I can laugh freely, but still fear and try to avoid sneezing.)

It has been raining here for days. I keep telling myself that may mean clear skies for the trip home. If we hit the high seas before I can write again, you can follow our trip by using the link on the right-side of this page called Where in the World?.

Ribs To Go, Please

Provisioned and everything stowed, our weather window looked promising for an early April departure. Then I got thirsty, in the middle of a dark night, and during my quest for water managed to fall on a 5-inch-high doorsill resulting in a mean bruise and couple of cracked ribs. I spent the next few days managing the pain and watching the clock for my next ration of ibuprofen. After months of rough weather and assorted adventures, I managed to hurt myself while the boat was perfectly calm. How embarrassing. I was fortunate to have had the good Dr (in electronics) Kettle on board who carefully monitored my injuries and tended to my every need, and believe me, there were many. By day five, I was able to climb up the hatch, and today (day 6) I was able to get ashore to visit a doctor. Full recovery is 3 to 6 weeks, but the doctor says I am making excellent progress and good to sail whenever I wish. After leaving the hospital we realized the doctor thought I was on a cruise ship. Oh well. As long as I continue my current rate of improved mobility and diminishing pain, a departure next week seems reasonable to me. (I was fearful that I might have to fly home.) So, its time to provision and stow everything again.

On Holiday

Mid March I traveled to the good ole US of A to visit by best bud Carey in the Philadelphia, PA area and my family in Oklahoma. Carey orchestrated fun-filled days that had us visiting museums and assorted exhibits by day and music venues or concerts at night, including exceptional shows by James Blunt and Lunasa. A certain highlight of my trip was visiting The Barnes Foundation which houses one of the finest collections of French early modern and post-impressionist paintings in the world, including the worlds largest collection of work by Renoir, Cezanne and American artist Maurice Pendergast. FYI, a visit to this gem of a place requires a reservation, but this unique art experience is alone worthy of your visit to the Philly area. Oklahoma was all about eating, visiting with family and eating more, often my grandmothers signature coconut cream pies. My grandmother was relieved to see me unharmed and happy despite my life afloat, and I relished, as always, being spoiled. I spent fun days with my Dad exchanging news about mutual friends and him updating me on the latest in the beef cattle industry, and with my aunt, uncle and their kids (7 of the most adorable and loving miniature schnauzers) or hanging around my uncles newly restored Corvette funny car, Moby Dick. Now I am back on the rock (in Bermuda) where my captain and I are carefully studying 5-day weather forecasts in preparation for our return sail north to Rhode Island. Visit here to see when we officially set sail.

The Rock

Bermuda, locally referred to as The Rock, is a land area of only 21 sq miles long (56 sq km) and about 2 miles (3 km) at its widest point, made up from several islands, many of which are now connected. One can travel from one end to the other in just over an hour (or in my case, about 90 minutes via the pink public buses) and from north to south in 15 minutes. Bermuda began as a volcanic mountain, but most of the volcanic rock is now 450 feet below sea level. The island appears to be made of limestone, clearly visible along the roadways and shorelines, which originated as sand from the reefs that formed dunes and subsequently cemented through the action of rain into rock. Upon close inspection, it is amazing what you can find inside the limestone! As I travel the shorelines there is frequent evidence of quarrying and cutting. Apparently the limestone was commonly used as a building material for protection against hurricanes but the laborious process is used little today (mostly for roofs) and now Bermudian walls are made with concrete blocks. As I roam the island I can’t help but think the concrete companies are doing well as new construction abounds and repairs are still being made to destruction caused by Hurricane Fabian in 2003.

Intoxicated by Flowers

After yet another 7 day stint of only looking at land through a thick wall of wind and rain, today was a cherished play day ashore. And oh what a day. The sun is shining again and the flora is as happy as I am. Influenced by trade winds, Bermuda has a subtropical, not tropical, climate. That means winters are cool and damp, and summers are rarely very hot. Gardens flourish and arable land is farmed year round. I find it interesting that only a few of the many species of plants growing in Bermuda are endemic. Most were introduced and many have become native, meaning they arrived by natural occurrence without the aid of man, but can be found in other places too. For example, Hibiscus, which is not endemic, is everywhere, including exotic red, yellow and white varieties. One of my favorite walks in St Georges takes me past the the Bermuda Perfumery which has been producing fragrances inspired by the flowers of Bermuda: Easter Lily, Jasmine, Oleander, Passion Flower, Frangipanni and Bermudiana since 1929.

Goodbye February!

Just in case you don't believe me, Bermuda Weather February 2006 Summary: "Cold and Windy. Temperatures, including the sea surface temperature, were below normal for the month. A series of well developed low pressure systems brought strong winds, with hurricane force gusts. Precipitation was nearly an inch above normal, with hail being recorded on three different days."

And the strong winds remain.

2 for 1 Bermuda Special

I have been trying to keep my blogs positive, which may explain why I do not write as often as I should. With several poor weather days behind me and several yet to go, I am compelled to tell you more about a real Bermuda winter. At this moment I am experiencing the second of back to back storm force weather patterns, which I call 2-for-1 Bermuda Specials. I will spare you the meteorological spiel but know that this is a common occurrence here. As if one storm of this caliber is not enough to cause sleep deprivation and make you beg for mother-natures mercy. By no. 2 you are in an I-can-not believe-this-is-happing-to-me-again fog and fantasizing about things you do not believe in, like mind altering substances or anything that might help you execute a wake-me-when-its-over strategy. Storm no. 1 was rough with frequent gusts into the 50 knot range which emptied the contents of my dinghy, including an external fuel tank. (This is sill too painful to talk about.) But this time storm no. 2 is a doozee. Or should I say doozeer? Anyway, its not pretty and the barometric pressure continues to fall. Like many storms before, I try to sleep but can not because it is like trying to sleep on a carnival ride. Instead I sit at the chart table and watch the instrument panel, my entertainment center, to confirm that the wind IS as bad as it sounds. I try to distract myself from the sloshing noises all around me, the howling in the rigging (it sounds like a tribe of banshees) and the creaking of the cabinetry, and hope. Hope that the weather will improve soon. Hope is a wonderful, powerful thing. I should be grateful that I have internet access and a weather knowledgeable captain (in Boston, the lucky dog) giving me updated reports based on the latest satellite imagery, but sometimes it hurts to hear the truth. Or in my case the forecasted truth, which is always subject to change, or so I hope.

Cocktails Anyone?

According to local knowledge, rum has been the drink of Bermuda for some 300 years. They certainly do like their rum as you will find it in so many things - even the jam! The two most popular rum drinks are the Bermuda Swizzle and the unofficial national drink, the Dark n Stormy.

Few would argue that the best swizzle can be enjoyed at the Swizzle Inn (in Baileys Bay) where the mantra is swizzle in, swagger out. I think the very tasty and refreshing swizzle is a perfect daytime cocktail, and is best enjoyed by the jug, shared with a friend. As the sunsets, I tend to take the locals lead and order up a dark n stormy. It is said that a true Bermudian prefers a dark n stormy, a highball made of black rum and ginger beer (pronounced burr), which is neither beer nor ginger ale, but a carbonated soft drink with a strong ginger flavor. Locals claim the real deal is made using Barritts Ginger Beer. I agree. Just about anyone can make a good dark n stormy but I enjoy them most at the White Horse Tavern in St Georges where they are commonly accompanied with sailing stories and weather talk.

For those of you who can not join me for cocktails, here is a taste of Bermuda to enjoy wherever you may be:

Bermuda Rum Swizzle

best made by the pitcher

8 oz Black Rum

Juice of 2 Lemon or limes

5 oz Pineapple juice

5 oz Orange juice

2 oz Grenadine or Bermuda Falernum

6 dashes Angostura bitters

Crushed or small-cubed ice

Stir or shake vigorously until a frothing head appears. Strain into sour glasses.

Note: extensive research has confirmed that the best swizzle is served at the Swizzle Inn.

Dark n Stormy
Place ice cubes in highball glass
Add 1.5 oz Black Rum
Top with Ginger Beer

Cheers!

Surprises at Sea

One of my favorite parts of ocean sailing is the joy of seeing something interesting in the water, ideally a creature of the sea. You would be surprised by how little you typically see out there, but I always hope. The other day we went out for a day sail off the southeast coast of Bermuda on Event Horizon with new found cruising friends from Maine. A few miles out we started spotting small objects several meters apart floating in the water. Is it trash? Is it some type of line in the water? Upon closer approach, one of our guests was able to identify the mystery object as a Portuguese Man-Of-War, a jelly-like marine animal that looked like a fragile blue bubble. Man-of-wars are well known for their painful and powerful sting, apparently seventy-five percent as powerful as cobra venom, and can be found in warm water all over the world. (I regret not spending money on cable TV to receive an Animal Planet education.) They are not Portuguese but named for their resemblance to a Portuguese battleship with a sail. These sea creatures are four different polyps that rely on each other to survive. The body is a gas-filled translucent bag-like float. It can be anywhere from 3 to 12 inches (9 to 30 centimeters) Underneath the float are clusters of polyps, from which hang coiled stinging tentacles of up to 165 feet (50 meters) long. The crest above the float is only a few inches tall and acts like a sail. Like us, it relies on the wind to move it from one place to another. Man-of-wars commonly float along in large groups and can deflate their floats so that the weather will not harm their delicate structures. Above is a close-up view from one of our sightings.

We Moved

Moving has never been so easy. No packing or change of address cards. Only coordination required was entering our new neighborhood at high tide. Still in St Georges Harbour (east end of Bermuda), we have moved into Smiths Sound, which is between Smiths Island and St Davids Island. Event Horizon is on a custom anchorage consisting of a 4,000 pound metal plate laying at the bottom of 20 ft of water, connected by 26 ft of ships chain and a rode of 30 ft 5/8 chain, connected to two bridles and a third chain which is secured to the mast. Our new location provides more shelter from all wind directions and easier access to a dock on St Davids, which should allow me to collect visitors in most weather conditions. Hallelujah.

While sea turtles are no longer a common sight, my new home is very beautiful and surrounded by history. Smiths Island (61 acres) was Bermudas first settlement and remains accessible only by boat. 23 acres are now a recreational park area, much of which has been reforested in native cedar trees.

St Davids Island (650 acres) is unknown to the average visitor and is considered the way it was. Its perimeter road skirts St Georges Harbour and is mostly residential. From 1941 to 1995 most of this island was used by the US Military, who built the airport which is located on the west-side next to the mainland connecting bridge. The most significant landmark is St Davids Lighthouse, an octagonal red and white tower built in 1879, which continues to serve as a beacon for mariners. The island also has two beautiful public beaches, nature trails and picturesque sea views.

Oh yeah, the harbour web cam does not reach this far south so there will be no more spying on me.

Bermuda Farmers Market

Most Saturdays you will likely find me enjoying the Bermuda Farmers Market. The market is held from November through June, which is the local growing season. Each Saturday from 8am - noon, on the north side of the Bulls Head Car Park in the city of Hamilton, you will find an assortment of island vendors selling only items grown or made by them. It is a fun way to shop for local produce, baked goods, plants and crafts, which range from knitted items to contemporary jewelry. A vendor may be a farm with an array of produce, while another is a backyard gardener selling tangelos from their tree. I treasure the selection of just-picked produce, especially the bunches of fresh herbs that turn my stores (canned food, rice and pasta) into gourmet meals. I also never leave without a bunch of Bermuda bananas - tiny bananas full of flavor. Other must haves? Organic eggs from Wadsons Farms, freshly made basil pesto and olive taupenade by Bouquet Garni and Sallies Bermuda Preserves. Bon appetit.

Bermuda - Day 60

It is day 3 of a Gale Warning. Yes, I am into my third day of being hunkered down in my floating home while gale force winds (30-60 Knots or 35-70 MPH) howl through the rigging and swing me from side to side. I keep reminding myself that most people have to buy expensive tickets for rides like this. Occasionally I get the urge and courage to pop my head up (out of the hatch) into the great wind machine that surrounds me. Then I quickly retreat to the sanity of down below. As if the rocking and swaying is not exciting enough, I have also been visited by intermittent thunderstorms that have warranted keeping equipment and systems-of-comfort turned off for most of this 3 day period. Thank goodness for cell phones, computer batteries, Petzl headlamps and books. The gale force winds are forecasted to ease today becoming light to moderate by tomorrow, as a low pressure moves away. This means that it should be safe to journey ashore tomorrow, wearing my latest badge of courage.

Holiday Season in Bermuda

Just like most of the world, the holiday season in Bermuda is filled with special events, bright lights and good cheer. The festivities kickoff in early Dec when the Bermuda National Trust hosts their annual Christmas Walkabout in St George. One of the islands most popular events is the Christmas Boat Parade in Hamilton Harbour, which features boats of all sizes decorated with festive lights and decorations, all vying to win one of several categories and the attention of thousands of spectators. In the midst of the celebrating, most homes are decorated inside and out, towns adorn the trunks of palm trees with lights and nearly all have a Christmas tree, most of which are imported from Canada. Eggnog laced with rum is clearly the seasons popular libation, and while each is slightly different and many a secret recipe, all are quite tasty. The shops are filled with traditional British treats - Christmas cakes, mincemeat tarts, Christmas puddings and those fun but noisy Christmas crackers (a small cardboard cylinder covered with decorative paper that holds candy or a party favor and pops when a paper strip is pulled at one or both ends and torn). Most pubs and restaurants are open on Christmas Eve but close on Christmas Day and the following day, which is observed as Boxing Day. When asked about Boxing Day, most people could not tell me much, and according to reference.com, its history remains unclear. The islands biggest holiday finale is New Years Eve in St George where Kings Square is alive with people of all ages enjoying live bands, street vendors and just before midnight, the lowering of the onion. Yes, a giant onion sculpture encased in bright lights, instead of the typical big ball. ('Onions’ is the unofficial name for Bermudians and 'Onion patch' is the unofficial name for Bermuda.) Last but not least, the New Year is greeted with an impressive display of fireworks over the harbour. Happy 2006!